It’s a Monday. The air feels brutally humid and heavy. Finding a legal parking spot in Taman Paramount around dinnertime is like trying to put together a jigsaw puzzle with five corner pieces. In short, the day feels like a write-off.
But there’s a remedy for that, and it’s not embracing the extra time spent in an air-conditioned car while scouring for parking opportunities in the neighbourhood’s back alleys and side lanes.
Since Remedy Cocktail Bar opened its doors last December, it has been swinging non-stop to let in a steady stream of patrons. Tucked away on the first floor of a shophouse, the classic cocktail bar immediately exudes retro cool with a red-and-blue staircase leading the way up as the hum of chatter and a lively playlist waft down.
The interiors are at once classic and contemporary — think tasteful gold accents, circular motifs echoing throughout the decor, and batik coasters for bursts of colour and local culture. Seating is arranged in clever pockets for that perfect mix of privacy and people-watching, and the lights are flatteringly low.
While some residents might frequent a neighbourhood bar purely for its proximity, regulars are definitely returning here for the drinks and the attractive happy-hour prices. The classic and contemporary theme of the surroundings is reflected in the menu. All the greats are present, including the margarita, Cosmopolitan, Vesper and Old Fashioned, as well as modern favourites such as the Aviation (London dry gin with maraschino liqueur, crème de violette and citrus) and Churchill (whisky, Cointreau, sweet vermouth and citrus).
However, it’s the Specials menu that intrigues. Six libations entice with their unusual ideas or ingredients. In the spirit of fun — as cocktails on a Monday feel embarrassingly rebellious — we try them all.
First, the Mayfield Bergamot (RM38), a concoction of Earl Grey-infused gin, lavender syrup, citrus and lavender mist. Floral notes dominate the scent but are softer on the palate, thanks to the sourness of the citrus and the pleasantly sweet and bitter tea.
It’s refreshing but, for real rejuvenation, try the Sage and Sea Salt (RM48). If that sounds familiar, you might have smelt a spritz of this before. Jo Malone’s Woody Sage and Sea Salt cologne inspired this twist on the classic Salty Dog, down to the aonori sea salt flakes that rim the highball glass. Sage-infused vodka, citrus, salt flakes, pink grapefruit and grapefruit soda create a lovely sparkling mouthful with a hint of umami.
The cheekily named Sugar Baby (RM38) blends white rum with balsamic vinegar and strawberry. While vinegar seems more at home in a salad than in a cocktail shaker, this pairing is genius, with a luxurious mouthfeel and a tartness that lingers at the back of the throat.
Reinterpretations of Malaysian favourites come next. Rummy Floaty (RM45) recalls afternoons in A&W way back when too-short legs swung merrily from a stool as too-small hands gripped large frosted mugs of root beer. Aged rum and root beer form the caramel-coloured base while spiced vanilla mousse evokes ice cream. Drink in the playful adultness of this nostalgic creation, laced with cinnamon to temper its sweetness.
Then there’s the BKT (RM52). Presented in a delicate teacup, the warm cocktail is an ode to the richly spiced and meaty bak kut teh. A vegan herbal broth simmered with mushrooms is mixed with cognac, peated Scotch whisky, sweet vermouth, and aromatic bitters and served with a chewy bark of dehydrated bak kut teh broth on the side. This won’t be everyone’s cup of tea but the savoury drink is the perfect remedy for rainy days or when under the weather.
Hands down the best order of the evening (this was unanimous) was the Asian Tai Tai. Head bartender Joshen Chew poured his past experience as a pastry chef into this liquid take on pulut tai tai. Coconut milk, pandan and sea salt recreate the sweet, salty, creamy and intensely fragrant flavours of the traditional nyonya kuih, just as butterfly pea sake checks off the blue hue and rice base.
It is concoctions like this — creative, unusual, complex and simply delightful to experience — that make cocktail bars such a hit and fuel their revival time and time again. Not knowing what to expect and the possibility of discovering something new add a sense of escapism to an ordinary evening. Remedy does not only cater to this crowd, though. If the right ingredients are in stock, the bartender is happy to make any off-menu classic for those who know what they want and see neither virtue nor value in straying off the path.
Neighbourhood bars usually hold a certain charm, which Remedy has in spades. Its unassuming location and laidback atmosphere belie the serious mixology happening behind the counter. This place is a true gem for those seeking a cosy and unpretentious spot to enjoy a carefully crafted cocktail. Whether you're a neighbourhood regular or a first-time visitor, you’ll definitely be back.
Remedy Cocktail Bar, 11A Jalan 20/7, Taman Paramount, PJ. Wed-Mon, 6pm to midnight. More info here.
This article first appeared on May 15, 2023 in The Edge Malaysia.