The Balvenie 30 Year Old is a monument to the distillery’s fine craft (All photos: The Balvenie)
Regular readers of this publication may have already noticed that it is a great time for all things 30 years old. Many magnificent creations had the privilege of being born in 1994; astute film buffs, for example, would remember this year for its monumental movies that became irreplaceable pop culture stalwarts.
But when it comes to that which is best ripened with age, the most dazzling are the quiet and unassuming stars who reveal themselves at the best possible moment. As proof of the importance of being patient, The Balvenie 30 Year Old is a shining example of the eminent distillery’s enduring commitment to its five rare crafts.
An evening of exquisite pairings and inspirational art hosted at Sabayon EQ, Kuala Lumpur, celebrated not only the peerless artistry and heritage of this bottle, but the expertise and history at the core of the brand’s many expressions. A four-course dinner paired with three of its cask finishes formed the pillar of the proceedings, while guests were invited to a dedicated room in small groups for an intimate tasting of the 30 Year guided by regional malts brand ambassador Jyri Pylkkänen prior to their meal.
Part of the Rare Marriages collection of high-age whiskies, which was introduced by former malt master and industry legend David C Steward MBE, this spirit has slumbered within a combination of meticulously selected traditional American and European casks, emerging as a liquid of incomparable complexity. The humble three and zero scribed in gold on the exterior almost oversimplifies the labour and endurance of three decades, yet a single sip tells all. The maker’s signature sweetness wears opulent notes of dark, chocolatey molasses, evoking the syrup-like reduced intensity of caramelised pears or date pudding with toffee and vanilla. Honeyed malt harmonises with the ripe fruitiness of plums and black cherries. Wafting from the deep amber ichor is a nose of oak and candied orange peel, while the lasting warmth in its spiced finish rounds out the exceptionally smooth and sumptuous drink.
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Also on display on an illuminated pedestal and which spread its golden glow for all to see was the especially precious Balvenie 50, the creative brainchild of current malt master Kelsey McKechnie. “It’s a remarkable, extraordinary whisky within the house. This tells the story of our makers, who have passed their skills forward to each generation,” explains Pylkkänen.
Commencing the dinner pairing, the first course featured a subtly smoky salmon tartare exalted by the pristine oceanic essence of caviar, which was in turn well-complemented by a milky burrata and aroma of dill. Rounding out the ensemble, the 14 Year Carribean Cask made for a welcome first dive into the collection, introducing the palate to the label’s distinctive honeyed soul. Tropical fruit and mild pepper touches give way to a pronounced vanilla and caramel flavour reminiscent of crème brûlée, a credit to its six-month rum cask finish, which tempers the seafood’s saltiness while retaining the sprightly character of this youngest bottle.
One finds a much tamer profile in the Portwood 21, which develops its mellow maturity in American oak before acquiring its full intricacies in port casks. This finishing technique presents as silky stone fruit and delicate dried berries, suggesting a gentle nuttiness and cinnamon tone that approaches peaches and cream and sesame candies. Refined and tactful, this single malt is easily accompanied by a tender slice of roasted Atlantic cod topped with crisp celeriac and fennel salad, dressed with a deeply savoury yet not overpowering anchovy sauce, as the rounded flavours of dish and dram mingle with effortless chemistry.
Following an intermission, grilled tenderloin served in an autumnal palette guided guests to the next whisky: the refreshingly fragrant French Oak 16. Topped with a generous slab of foie gras, sweet port sauce, and a modest pipe of pumpkin puree and earthy chanterelles on the side, the steak exuded a musky richness that had one readily reaching for its fluid companion. Months of gestation in the French oak Pineau des Charentes (fortified wine) casks have seasoned this golden drink with the juicy, citrus brightness of honey-drenched bergamot and grapefruit, while floral tinges of geranium are undercut by gingery spice and the collection’s characteristic caramel-vanilla — a welcome respite from the toothsome fattiness of its matching course.
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The 21 Year made its encore as the meal’s closing act, appearing with a corn and almond sbrisolona tart, mango carrot sorbet and Chantilly cream. Disbelievers of vegetables in dessert can shed their suspicions: the vivid yet restrained sweetness of the chilled orange quennelle and crumbly, ever-so-lightly savoury Italian pastry proved a fantastic coupling of textures. Mirroring these balanced flavours, the oldest of the tasting line-up delivered a graceful conclusion to the evening with its elegant port influence, a testament to its award-winning reputation.
The night also saw the auction of a unique sculpture by artist Edward Tan as part of The Balvenie Makers Project, a global initiative to spotlight the masterful works of a range of creators and craftsmen. Titled Convergence, Tan’s piece features a 30-year-old oak cask, (bestowed by the company), bisected and reconstructed in 30 copper-toned steel panels to represent the corresponding years, and designed to hold the bottle at its heart. The layers create the effect of topographical or archaeological depth when viewed from above but appear near transparent at eye level as a reference to the clarity of liquid. Fluid curvilinear contours emulate natural weathering, speaking to the age encapsulated in the barrel and the resulting smoothness of the product.
“The inspiration behind this [work] is the five key elements of the whisky-making process. We have captured the silhouette of the barrel, which is an homage to the tradition and time spent on the craft,” elaborates Tan. Proceeds from the sale of the sculpture, which fetched an impressive RM38,000, were donated to The Rojak Projek, a social enterprise committed to promoting unity and diversity through Malaysian arts, food and culture.
This article first appeared on Oct 21, 2024 in The Edge Malaysia.
