Fun fact: Grumpy Bagels' bungalow in Imbi used to be the childhood home of Tun Dr Siti Hasmah (Photo: Grumpy Bagels)
Breathing life into a vacant bungalow, Grumpy Bagels’ vintage concept attracts a crowd no matter the time of day. Jazzy tunes from years past are consistently in the background and most of the building’s original antique structure and flooring have been maintained, further warmed up by redwood furnishings.
That said, it is the establishment’s namesake chewy ring-shaped breads that people line up for. Among several plain sandwich dishes, the Classic Lox, which comes with a side of golden fries and dipping sauce (RM36), can do no wrong. While you do not get to select your bagel (all sandwiches come with the plain version), generous layers of smoked Atlantic salmon, rich scallion cream cheese and salty capers are a foolproof filling.
For a more unorthodox choice, opt for the Barbacoa Pulled Beef open-face bagel (RM35) that is served piled high with the tender overnight-cooked protein and topped with runny poached eggs. For diversity, go for non-bread dishes like the Kimchi Seafood Risotto (RM35) and Smoked Duck Aglio Olio (RM32).
grumpy_bagels.jpg
Caffeine here is on the slightly pricey side, with an iced black going for RM13 and a matcha latte for RM15 (before the oat milk tax, which demands an additional RM3, though no surprise there). Drinks are also served in disposable paper and plastic cups — albeit ones adorned with the café’s adorable scowling bear logo — which is super convenient for taking your beverage to go after dining in but perhaps less ideal for the ultra eco-conscious.
Be advised that a 30-minute or longer wait to be seated is common if you arrive at peak meal hours on weekends or public holidays. That said, the staff does a good job of freeing up tables by implementing a one-hour dining time and helping outdoor guests beat the heat with powerful fans and free refillable cold water. Use this extra time to determine your order so you do not hold up the second line that inevitably forms at the cashier’s and risk making other diners grouchy (-er).
5, Jalan Kamuning, off Jalan Imbi, Kuala Lumpur. Wednesdays to Mondays, 9am to 5pm.
Across various cultures and cuisines, fried dough has taken on several names and forms, from youtiao (Chinese fried crullers) to kuih keria. None, however, are as globally known and favoured as the traditional circle or ring doughnuts. Popularised by American cuisine and pop culture, this sugary snack with Dutch roots has come to symbolise indulgence and self reward.
A newcomer to the increasingly hip area of Taman Paramount in Petaling Jaya, Nareo puts an artisanal spin on these classic treats. Situated on one of the quieter shoplot streets, the shop bakes its goods in-house throughout the day to ensure freshness. The short drinks menu features the usual black, white and mocha coffees as well as chocolate, hōjicha or matcha — basic but forgivable as the beverages are clearly meant to complement the food.
img_6116.jpg
Here, a box of six doughnuts will add up to about RM60, depending on the flavours (singles are priced not much more or less than RM10 each). Some worth trying are the Mandarin Yuzu with a tangy citrus curd and a layer of fluffy torched meringue; the not-too-sweet Tiramisu that has a spongy espresso-soaked centre; the Apple Pie with a jammy fruit filling and crunchy brûléed sugar top; and the Gianduia chocolate and Roasted Hazelnut that is reminiscent of Nutella spread.
Nareo’s dough is on the denser side, making some of the sweeter choices quite cloying after a few bites, especially without a strong, bitter coffee or tea to cut through the richness. If you prefer airy textures, the ones here may be difficult to swallow — literally. But those with a serious sweet tooth should definitely swing by. Oh, and if the weather is good, photos taken at the outdoor seating by the sentient doughnut logo sign are truly Instagram worthy.
37G, Jalan 20/14, Taman Paramount, PJ. Tuesdays to Sundays, 9am to 6pm.
In the heart of the city, there is perhaps no better place for a café to set up shop than REXKL’s food court, aka The Background. With masses of locals and tourists visiting each day and strong ties with KL’s artistic and F&B communities, the building was the obvious choice for Summation’s second branch.
The little stall catches one’s attention instantly, thanks to its playful design accentuated by pops of colour and the giant fake canelé at the cash desk. The café’s merchandise line, Summorie, can be browsed in the little room next door. If not, a saucer at the counter containing stickers featuring quirky designs and cheeky taglines is free to pick through after placing your order.
If you feel spoiled for choice by the many desserts, the CaMaFi set (RM18) — one financier, madeleine and choice of canelé — is perfect to share between two people. Good canelés in particular can be scarce in Malaysia, as pâtisserie lovers may know. Summation’s cylindrical sweets, which come in a range of flavours, tick all the necessary boxes — the outer shell is crisp but not tough, and the inside boasts a pillowy and almost custard-like consistency — earning a seal of approval.
summation.jpg
Highs are followed by lows, though, as drinks here are hit or miss. The specialty sodas are refreshing and flavourful — the Sunburn (RM13) has a bright, citrusy kick lightly rounded out by cinnamon and spices. However, the matcha drinks lack the nutty, almost grassy complexity and viscous characteristic of quality tea powder. The RM15 rendition of a strawberry matcha latte has a regrettably imbalanced matcha-milk ratio and a fruit syrup that tastes suspiciously artificial.
Our verdict: If you have a fancy for French confections with a modern twist, Summation has decent offerings that also make a wonderful gift when presented in their pretty takeaway packaging, though your budget for drinks is probably better spent at Stellar Coffee at the front entrance.
Ground Floor, REXKL, 80 Jalan Sultan, KL. Daily, 9am to 7pm.
This article first appeared on June 10, 2024 in The Edge Malaysia.
