The sheer variety of good food in our country is reflective of our multi-ethnic makeup. See how the best bars in town are paying tribute to the nation’s most beloved dishes and snacks one tipple at a time.
While Malaysia’s extensive assortment of kuih has something for every unique palate, the curry puff is perhaps the epitome of a crowd favourite. When done right and served fresh, the layers of flakey golden pastry deliver a satisfying crunch to accompany the spicy, savoury filling. The essence of this popular snack has been reimagined in Bar Trigona’s Cacao and Curry cocktail — a combination of rum, bourbon whiskey, malbec, falernum syrup and an ethically sourced cacao curry puff.
Oloiya’s sticky, sweet and savoury meat jerky is a household name, but few are aware of the company’s humble beginnings in Chinatown, where its founders sold orange juice in the 1970s. To evoke the dried meat’s smoky flavour, Jann KL’s Bak Kwa combines Ballantine’s Finest Blended Scotch Whisky and Montelobos Espadin Mezcal with a touch of orange as a nod to the founders’ earlier venture. A slice of jerky as a garnish is a must, of course.
Any nostalgic libation at Sanctuary 38 will guarantee a trip down memory lane, but the Sago Gula Melaka from the dessert section may very well lead you to the most unforgettable one. This grown-up version of a childhood favourite retains its quintessential profile with fragrant pandan and caramelised palm sugar, but is spiked with spiced rum and coconut liqueur. The mound of delicate sago is punctured by coconut biscuits — a cheeky treat for the kid at heart.
Nothing spells comfort better than a warm bowl of congee. Reka Bar, ranked No 41 on Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2024, has managed to replicate and elevate the nostalgic elements of the dish in a drink. The complex Naughty Congee is built on a base of Diplomatico Reserva Exclusiva Rum, Amaro Montenegro and floral amazake, laced with matcha, citrus, Bentong halia and torch ginger flower. Topped with a dash of coconut ginger sprinkles, the cocktail is easily one of the self-proclaimed “post-modern flavour lab’s” most creative creations.
Every country has its version of a salad. Here, that would have to be rojak — a dish with several variations that always hinges on the tried-and-true formula of fresh fruit and vegetables coated in a spicy, tangy sauce. As part of its Perennial Favourites menu, JungleBird’s Nyonya Business pays homage to the Malay rendition. Served in a coconut-husk cup, the tipple is crafted with Diplomatico Planas rum, cashew orgeat, cucumber and green chilli shrub, pineapple and rojak sauce.
Ice bandung on a scorching hot day? Yes, please! Triptyk’s vibrant rendition mixes ginger rice wine — brewed in Negeri Sembilan — evaporated milk and rose and Bentong ginger syrup. Helmed by veteran bartender Angel Ng, Triptyk specialises in low-ABV tipples that are better for you and the environment. The team tries to carry out sustainable practices wherever possible. Case in point: The cracker garnishing Dirty Bandung was created using food scraps to reduce waste.
Allow rākh to expand your mixology horizons with The Rasam, the house’s signature creation that draws on the eponymous South Indian broth. Made from a medley of tamarind, tomatoes, chilli peppers and cumin, the simple yet flavoursome soup is reinterpreted in the form of a herb and fermented tomato-infused vodka and spice distillate. The beverage is served with a swirl of warm foam and, for an extra kick, a dusting of powdered rasam leftovers.
Whether it is after an action-packed party or a case of midnight peckishness, there is one local fast food item that never fails to gratify — the Ramly burger. New kid on the block Cabinet 8 mixes up a concoction of gin, onion, Maggi seasoning and pickled cucumber, topped with a mini gourmet burger that is sure to bring back memories of hanging out with loved ones by your neighbourhood stall while the mouth-watering smell of grilling patties wafts through the air.
This article first appeared on Aug 26, 2024 in The Edge Malaysia.