The tea room has also incorporated some European accents (All photos: Qilin Antique Tea Room)
Just a short stroll from the heaving, pulsating streets of Chinatown in Bangkok is Maitri Chit. Quieter yet still atmospheric, and within the Hua Lamphong district that is experiencing a revival, there is a shabby chicness about the area. The curious may wander this way but it is the design-conscious who actively journey here as über cool boutique hotel Mustang Blu is on this road, while antiques aficionados will make a beeline for number 1862, where Qilin Antique Tea Room is.
Founded by Malaysian Andy See Thoe, who relocated from Penang to set up shop in the Thai capital armed with five containers of treasure, Qilin takes its name from a mythological chimera, or unicorn-like creature, in Asian folklore. The Chinese call it qilin; in Japan, it is the kirin; and in Thailand, gilen. Artisans normally portray it with dragon-like features, albeit with a horn or antler, and a body shaped like an ox, deer, horse or even goat. There are several legends that star the qilin, but almost all revolve around it as the symbol of the birth or passing of great men due to their reputation as creatures of wisdom and immense benevolence. A qilin was said to have appeared before the birth of the sage Confucius while people claim Huangdi, the fabled Yellow Emperor, encountered both a qilin and phoenix in his garden before ascending to heaven. “I chose the name Qilin as it’s a beautiful word in Chinese. Also I wanted to introduce the creature to the world. Everyone knows the dragon already,” says See Thoe.
Opened in May 2023, Qilin has been attracting a steady stream of patrons, who range from the curious to the hungry and thirsty. “I didn’t choose this site in particular. I just knew I wanted to be in Bangkok, as it is so international and not too far from Penang,” says the George Town-born See Thoe. “I happened to be walking around and just chanced upon the shoplot.” Most walk-ins are attracted by Qilin’s façade, adorned with a traditional red door carved with vases of flowers. Once within, it is — to borrow the title of Cao Xueqin’s 18th-century masterpiece — a veritable Dream of the Red Chamber.
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Opulent Chinoiserie is, undoubtedly, Qilin’s overarching theme and almost everything you cast your eye on is available for sale, from precious antique paravents that evoke Gabrielle Chanel’s famous coromandel screens to opium beds, and a vast array of treasures from the late Qing Dynasty period. Interestingly, there are also some European accents, as evinced by vintage Louis Vuitton trunks, Beswick Wally King Charles Spaniel mantel dogs and even marble Greco-Romanesque statues. “My focus is, of course, Chinese antiques but I also included some classic pieces, as my Thai clients simply love them,” says See Thoe.
If your budget does not permit you to go furniture shopping, he has thoughtfully crafted a small menu offering drinks and desserts. There are six sweet treats to choose from and, if you had to pick just one, it would be the signature soy milk pudding topped with goldfish tang yuan (THB280, or RM36). Handmade using glutinous rice flour, each realistic-looking fish is filled with oozy black sesame swimming in a small “pond” fashioned from pudding. Little leaves of nasturtium resemble lily pads while edible flowers complete the mini masterpiece. In response to the tremendous popularity of the dish, See Thoe has introduced a variation — peanut-filled black goldfish, flecked with gold leaf and swimming in spicy ginger syrup (THB280).
A dessert to instantly remind you of your exotic location would be the cha yen, or Thai tea pudding served with scoops of fat coconut flesh and squares of sesame peanut brittle (THB220). Traditionalists would opt for the fail-safe option of a bowl of peach gum and red dates (THB220). Qilin’s version of the latter uses soy milk, as opposed to the more refreshing light syrup. Alas, no tweaking or special requests can be accommodated because of the small workforce (often a one-man show) running the tea room. Although the crockery used is not for sale, do not miss admiring the beautiful pieces that See Thoe has selected for his tea and desserts, including Wan Shou Wu Jiang and blue-and-white qinghua porcelain.
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Ah, and lest we forget, Qilin is, above all, a dedicated tea salon with almost a dozen fine blends to choose from, including Dan Cong oolong from Guandong’s Fenghuangshan (Phoenix Mountains), Fuding white tea from Taimu in Fujian and Hangzhou’s world-renowned Longjing green tea. Those in search of something more exciting could try house specials such as the Forbidden City (THB250), a blend of longan, butterfly pea, lemon and soda; Imperial Iced Tea (THB200), which uses mandarin oranges, lemonade soda and ginger syrup; or the evocatively named oolong and maple syrup-sweetened Raise the Red Lantern (THB200), but with a hit of chilli.
Qilin Antique Tea Room, at 1862 Maitri Chit Road, Bangkok, is open daily from 11am to 7pm, except for Tuesdays.
This article first appeared on Jan 20, 2025 in The Edge Malaysia.
