Bright patterns, textures and styles are part of Hani Mokhta's DNA, presented in full force in Part III — Soul from the Symphony collection (Photo: Hani Mokhta)
The season is full of firsts for this trio of local creatives — one is incorporating elements of Chinese traditional clothing, another is experimenting with fanciful florals printed on chiffon. Here are some ready-to-wear ensembles rich with stylish twists.
Anaabu
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Ana Abu’s eponymous brand was founded in 2010. What began as a small online thrift shop bloomed into a full-fledged fashion label with the launch of its first in-house collection in 2015. Civil engineer Ana was not particularly interested in fashion, but she revelled in discovering one-of-a-kind treasures from thrifting.
“With just RM200+ from my thesis claim, I began curating and styling secondhand products, including items from my mother’s wardrobe, and listed them on my blog shop. To my surprise, it gained traction,” she says.
While working as a civil engineer in Kuala Lumpur, this Pasir Mas, Kelantan native would participate in local weekend markets and bazaars to connect with like-minded creatives and expand her network. Eventually, she became fascinated with fashion. “I learnt from people around me, observing their craftsmanship and teaching myself through hands-on experience. I studied silhouettes, fabrics and construction methods by deconstructing garments to understand how they were made.” Experimenting with different looks deepens her knowledge about how clothing can influence one’s identity. When it comes to designing and building a line, Ana pays close attention to three key elements: storytelling, functionality and craftsmanship.
“I want each collection to reflect more than just aesthetics. I explore themes that resonate deeply with our audience, ensuring each piece is part of a larger narrative that connects tradition with modernity.
“I always consider how they will fit into someone’s daily life. Versatility is a core aspect of Anaabu’s identity; so, I focus on relaxed silhouettes, thoughtful tailoring and timeless designs that allow for easy styling.”
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For Syawal this year, the brand has introduced Kongsi Masa, featuring a concept inspired by celestial bodies and the notion of time, inviting one to pause, appreciate and cherish moments that truly matter. The patterns embellished on some of the clothes are drawn from the lyrics of Rasa Sayang. “It’s a song that transcends generations, evoking a sense of nostalgia, warmth and the spirit of togetherness. I remember hearing it sung in school, even during family gatherings growing up. It was more than just a song — it was a shared experience that connected people.”
A signature item, Tiān Kebaya Top, is adorned with cempedak embroidery; and the Yuè Kebarung Top is fashioned with crescent and cat embroidery — motifs symbolising wisdom, curiosity and the passage of time. The pieces, in earthy, muted tones, are crafted from natural and breathable materials such as cotton, linen and textured weaves to ensure comfort and durability.
Kongsi Masa also embraces the diversity Malaysia is known for. “It marks the first time we’ve incorporated elements of Chinese traditional wear into our Raya designs. Rather than producing items specifically for the Lunar New Year, our approach was to explore the shared cultural values across different communities.
“We’ve always been inspired by the rich cultural narratives that shape our society. We wanted to celebrate the beauty of traditions — Malay, Chinese and beyond — while offering [clothes] that feel inclusive, timeless and meaningful to a diverse audience.”
Kait Qipao and Purnama Tang Suit reinterpret classic Chinese garments with understated elegance and versatility to honour traditional craftsmanship. They boast relaxed profiles, making them wearable beyond festive occasions.
Anaabu rolls out two main collections every year, including festive and daily wear. “Rather than chase trends or mass produce, we are intentional with our releases. Each launch is carefully curated to ensure quality, sustainability and a meaningful connection with our customers. We focus on slow fashion, offering enduring styles that remain relevant across seasons.”
The label has certainly evolved in the last 15 years. “While I initially handled everything on my own, today, Anaabu thrives on collaboration within the team. We develop concepts and refine designs together to make sure every piece aligns with our vision. With this growth, we also see our audience evolve, attracting customers not only in Malaysia but also internationally.
“The most meaningful change for us has been finding our identity as a brand — one rooted in culture, authenticity and mindful design. As we continue to grow, our goal remains the same: to make clothing with purpose, and bridge the past and present while staying true to our effortless aesthetic.”
Browse the rest of the collection here.
Hani Mokhta
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Sisters Tati Hani and Farah Hani’s shared interest in fashion was cultivated in the late 2000s, when the blogging era took the internet by storm. “We remember small brands curating and selling their products on Blogspot when we were teenagers. That gave us early exposure to fashion, as we learnt how people put together their looks and felt confident in them,” says Tati.
Tati and Farah went on to pursue a degree in fashion marketing and diploma in fashion design respectively before moving on to work with local and international brands. “We had a stint in the same company and after two years, looking at our experience, we decided it was time to start something of our own,” Tati says.
Instead of establishing a label for the sake of it, Hani Mokhta was conceived in 2018 because Tati had a hard time finding a bridal gown that fit her modest preference. “It was the period when people were into elaborate and grand dresses, which did not suit my personal style,” she recalls.
For three years, the business was dedicated to serving brides who wanted bespoke garments with timeless and classic silhouettes. During the pandemic, however, the brand had to pivot and expand its offerings, as wedding ceremonies could not be held. “We made the decision to venture into the ready-to-wear segment because we couldn’t continue living with uncertainties that would impact the company and our employees. We were lucky to have a very supportive community and loyal clientele who welcomed this change.”
Hani Mokhta’s Raya collection this year, Symphony, celebrates a milestone and is a tribute to customers who have championed the label every step of the way. “It is a presentation of the progress we have made in the last five years of creating ready-to-wear clothes,” says Tati.
Boasting three parts, Symphony is the first expansive collection produced by the brand for the festive season. Each release tells the story of development through transformation of colours.
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Part I — Sense features a slim selection of baju kurung, blouses, a dress and skirt made from pure cotton and decorated with intricate embroidery. Offering elevated comfort and understated elegance, the all-white ensembles recall a blank canvas, exuding the innocence of a child who has yet to discover the beauty of the world. As she grows and learns more about herself, she begins to find excitement in going out of her comfort zone. Part II — Spirit embodies this confidence with flowy silhouettes in a range of soft palettes.
The storyline for Sense and Spirit reflects the label’s journey of growth and adventurous character. “Hani Mokhta is known for its prints and colours. We really wanted to challenge ourselves with Symphony; so, this is the first time we are introducing an all-white series with black and pastel shades,” says Tati.
“We get a lot of feedback from customers for each launch. They will say they like the style we made and material we used previously. But as creatives, we want to evolve and keep offering something fresh.”
The founders honour the brand DNA in Part III — Soul with an array of bright patterns, textures and styles ideal for Raya celebrations. Modern kurung and baju Kedah — available for children as well — and kebaya are designed with a contemporary twist, and customers can don them with shawls in organza or chiffon.
Symphony took about a year to complete, from ideation and design to fabric selection, then production. “We experimented with a variety of new things and it’s also the biggest collection we have ever produced, hence the amount of time we spent on it.
“When we want to use a new material, we have to run all sorts of tests to see how it reacts to different conditions. We have to check if certain detergents will shrink a fabric, and stuff like that. Lots of thought and detail went into each piece.”
From their observation, consumers nowadays look for items that are versatile and timeless. “They want something they can wear throughout the year, whether for a lunch outing or to the office,” Farah says.
“We are not making clothes that will go out of style in six months. That’s why the Symphony collection is special. As we commemorate the past five years of our ready-to-wear segment, we are excited to see how our customers will get creative mixing and matching our older pieces with current ones,” says Tati.
Browse the rest of the collection here.
Khoon Hooi
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Talking about his biggest motivation for carving a career in fashion since he was young, veteran designer Khoon Hooi vividly recalls treasured memories of his grandmother. “My grandma was the one who inspired me to get into fashion. We are from the north, not Peranakan, but she adopted a lot of their values into her lifestyle. The food we ate, the way we prayed and the way she dressed were heavily influenced by the culture.
“She would wear kebaya and sarong every day no matter the occasion — birthdays, weddings or funerals. I grew up with her; we were together all the time. I would observe and admire the way she styled herself. She did not sew, but would cut the pattern, then send them to tailors and embroiderers for sulam. That’s how I learnt the process of making clothes,” he shares.
Khoon Hooi went on to study fashion design and established his eponymous label in 1999. More than two decades later, the brand is an active participant in the global “Big 4” fashion weeks and has been dressing celebrities and Hollywood stars, including Chelsea Handler, Malin Akerman, Sherry Cola, Zooey Deschanel and Camila Morrone, for special events or award shows.
Despite this success, its founder stays humble and continues to showcase his heritage and culture to the world through many creations year after year. As such, the tunic top has been a go-to staple whenever this Parit Buntar native envisioned a new Raya collection. “Of course, there will be other options like baju kurung, but kebaya is our main offering. Even when it’s not the festive season, people who need traditional clothes for certain occasions will come to us for that as well.”
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This year, Khoon Hooi presents a total of 11 pieces — eight kebaya and three kurung — for its Raya special. The collection pays homage to Saloma, whose sweet voice we still hear in Hari Raya songs and retro elegant flair continues to be a reference for women since the 1950s. “Previously, when I thought of kebaya, I only thought of grandma. But I realised Saloma represented the era very well. Plus, she had such a strong passion for fashion and her distinctive style was unmissable.”
As kebaya has been the brand’s key festive designs in the last eight years, the creative team ensures they remain alluring by infusing them with fresh elements — arresting prints, fine details and varying textures. “Kebaya will always have the same cut, but how do you make it interesting each time? You introduce all these diverse features that will appeal to the contemporary consumer. Also, we want our clients to have something new to buy,” he enthuses.
The traditional tunic he remembers grandma wearing had lots of sulam embellishments. “Many artisans practised the craft before. But it has become a niche; not many can present such delicate work anymore and it is so expensive to produce because it is made by hand. Besides, the motif does not really appeal to the modern crowd. Thus, I’ve decided to maintain standard silhouettes and play with contemporary fabric and lace details instead.”
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This year, his garments are crafted using floral brocade, fil coupé and velvet jacquard. And for the first time, Khoon Hooi experimented with floral-printed chiffon and imagined it in Nadini. Adorned with delicate roses, lace trims and leaf brooches, the apparel has a soft yet commanding presence. Its sheer and lightweight fabric drapes effortlessly, tracing the body’s movement with grace.
The designer’s personal favourites are Rani and Trisya. The former is imposing and striking with contrasting hues of the red velvet jacquard motif set against green chiffon. Lace trims and pearl-crystal brooches lend additional charm. The latter is equally stunning; its floral sequinned top comes complete with a draped satin skirt embellished with glass beads at the hemline.
Asked what accessory goes best with kebaya, Khoon Hooi says: “How you style your hair and scarf is the most important. And a pair of nice shoes to go with it. Kerongsang also plays a big role in kebaya. Depending on the occasion, you can try out simple to elaborate pieces to match the vibe.”
Browse the rest of the collection here.
This article first appeared on Mar 10, 2025 in The Edge Malaysia.
