The fair will include a newly redesigned space to accommodate the exhibitors, including W&W stalwarts and bigwigs Rolex, Patek Philippe, IWC Schaffhausen and Jaeger-LeCoultre (All photos: Watches and Wonders)
The countdown has begun. In less than two weeks, the curtains will rise on Watches and Wonders (W&W) and horology’s best kept secrets will be revealed. The 2025 edition will be the largest salon to date, with 60 brands, including five newcomers, taking the stage in Geneva, Switzerland, the world capital of watchmaking.
Retailers, journalists and professionals from across the globe will convene in the halls of Palexpo from April 1 to 4 to discover this season’s novelties. As for enthusiasts and collectors, the salon will once again open its doors to the public from April 5 to 7.
The arrival of Bvlgari as a key exhibitor marks a significant leap in prestige for the event. Joining esteemed peers Cartier, Piaget and Van Cleef & Arpels, the maison’s presence underscores the intensification of the distinguished jewellers’ horological pursuits. In any case, there is no better place to expand their influence than from the industry’s epicentre.
The other new brands gracing the fair are independent watchmakers Kross Studio, Christiaan van der Klaauw, Genus and MeisterSinger, alongside returning Armin Strom and HYT. The fair will include a newly redesigned space to accommodate the exhibitors, including W&W stalwarts and bigwigs Rolex, Patek Philippe, IWC Schaffhausen and Jaeger-LeCoultre.
There are a number of reasons this year’s event is particularly anticipatory, but the biggest is the fact that there are almost 10 watchmakers celebrating milestone anniversaries in 2025.
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Vacheron Constantin is commemorating its 270th (it has already started with the steel 222), Tag Heuer and Panerai are both hitting 165 while Zenith is marking its 160th. Rolex is turning 120, but a bigger surprise may ensue since it is also the GMT-Master and Datejust’s 70th and 80th anniversary respectively. Grand Seiko turns 65; Hublot, 45 (it is also the Big Bang’s 20th); and A. Lange & Söhne, 35. Naturally, there will certainly be no shortage of novelties.
However, W&W is doing more than just showcasing watches this year. It has clear intentions to prioritise young talent and education as well. Brands are encouraged to bring their best apprentices, recent graduates and craftspeople to the fore to promote the transfer of knowledge and intergenerational exchange. By focusing on the youth, W&W is actively investing in building future leaders while addressing the critical need for skilled craftspeople and innovative minds to carry horological traditions forward.
This theme extends to the Lab, where visitors are offered a glimpse of how the watchmaking profession and training will look like in the future. Brands, start-ups and students will also present their ideas, projects and prototypes. We hear the University of Art and Design Lausanne is working in collaboration with component manufacturer Ceramaret to produce five innovative jewellery pieces using the latter’s ceramic 3D printing technology.
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Not to be missed is the Longitude 0° exhibition by photographer Fred Merz. The Swiss lensman travelled along the prime meridian from north to south to photograph people who live and work along the line, asking them about their relationship with time. During his journey, he spotted the markers that signal the prime meridian’s passage, from England to Ghana, via France, Spain and Algeria. The result is a collection of diptychs that recounts his road trip.
W&W reprises its In the City programme, where readings, screenings, exhibitions, guided tours, conferences and workshops exploring the notion of time will be held across Geneva. In line with its aim to spotlight the youth of tomorrow, young professionals and apprentices will present training pathways at the Watchmaking Village at Pont de la Machine. There will also be live coverage of the SwissSkills 2025 qualifications for microtechnology professions — organised in conjunction with the Salon for the first time — at the same venue.
Meanwhile, your favourite watch boutiques will host a slew of activities and experiences to enliven the town. Hublot is celebrating 20 years of Big Bang with a surprise musical performance; Oris’ Escape Room challenges its visitors to uncover the secrets of its latest mechanical watches; Chanel is putting on a series of workshops, from gem-setting to watch assembly; Piaget is serving fun cocktails; and there will be several prizes to be won at Tudor. The festivities will culminate in the Nocturne night concert on April 3 along Quai Général-Guisan.
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W&W has steadily evolved over the years since its transition from the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, even amid the recent luxury downturn. Last September, Watches and Wonders Geneva Foundation (WWGF), the governing body that sets the strategic direction of the event, welcomed three new members to its board. Originally established in 2022 by Rolex, Richemont and Patek Philippe, it is now joined by Chanel, Hermès and LVMH.
The expansion signifies a broader representation of the luxury watch industry within the foundation. The addition of these prominent brands is expected to further enhance the influence and scope of W&W and strengthen its position as a leading global platform for high-end watchmaking.
There have also been changes to the WWGF board’s leadership. Rolex CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour has passed the chairman role to Cyrille Vigneron, formerly the president and CEO of Cartier, with Claude Peny, CEO of Patek Philippe, as vice-chairman.
There is certainly much to look forward to at W&W this year. Something tells us it is going to be the best one yet.
This article first appeared on Mar 17, 2025 in The Edge Malaysia.
