The 2024 Tsukuriwake Series exemplifies the distilleries’ commitment to artistry and diversity (All photos: Suntory)
Japan’s reopening in 1853, after over 200 years of isolation, introduced massive changes to all segments of everyday life. The influx of economic trade and ideological influence from the Occident swiftly touched everything from politics to literature and, naturally, consumer culture. In manners of liquid libation, the Land of the Rising Sun was beginning to wet its whistle with the wines and whiskies of the West. A young Shinjiro Torii, who would later found the House of Suntory, immersed himself in these new and fashionable pursuits, but discovered the spirits from across the globe were far too bold and disagreeable to the Japanese palate. His vision to create a liquid attuned to the tastes of his countrymen eventually came to fruition with the pioneering establishment of the Yamazaki and later Hakushu distilleries, which to this day relentlessly honour their founder’s noble mission in every vivid and refined expression.
Celebrating the fundamental philosophies of harmony, craftsmanship and hospitality, the recently unveiled 2024 Tsukuriwake Series (named to mean “artisanship through a diversity of making”) embodies the makers’ unwavering ethos with four remarkable releases: Yamazaki Islay Peated Malt, Yamazaki Golden Promise, Yamazaki Mizunara 18 Year, and Hakushu 18 Year Peated Malt. Accompanying this resplendent display, Skillet Kuala Lumpur’s customised menu invites guests to indulge in an evening of upscale European fare, thoughtfully coordinated with a guided tasting by Suntory brand ambassador Andrew Pang.
The collection is the product of fifth-generation chief blender Shinji Fukuyo, who was recently awarded Master Blender of the Year at the International Spirits Challenge 2024. By exploring a variety of new ingredients, maturation methods and flavour profiles, the lineup demonstrates Fukuyo’s as well as the brand’s innovative prowess and creative expertise.
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Amid an insightful exposition on Yamazaki’s history by Pang, a charming grid of amuse bouches graces the table: an artistic roll filled with mud crab meat, artichoke and summer squash; sweet Hokkaido scallop wrapped and served on a seaweed sablé; corn-fed chicken in a delicate cup topped with green peas for a fresh pop; and escargot with black garlic and basil pesto. Between each savoury bite, sips of the Islay Peated Malt open with a mildly medicinal nose, followed on the palate by a baked warmth reminiscent of biscuits and milk chocolate balanced by touches of citrus — a pleasant introduction. Emerging from these lighter notes is the essential undertone of smokiness of the Islay malt, resulting in a fluid that also pairs quite effortlessly with the brown sugar aroma of the restaurant’s iconic dried longan bread with truffle butter.
The subsequent course paves the way for the next glass, the poetic Golden Promise, which derives its title from the Scottish barley used not only in this expression but as the stabiliser across all of the distillery’s products. While the grain produces less starch and is more difficult to work with, the reward is particularly heavy and rounded, presenting in this bottle with pronounced tropicality owing to the longer fermentation time and higher temperatures. A perfume of ripened banana fills the nostrils as fruity tinges of pineapple and melon with shortbread evoke honey-soaked orange cake, juicy and rich on the tongue, before finishing with a lengthy sweetness. The partner starters traverse sensibly through the refreshing and oceanic, in the delightfully tender Isaki fish served on cured watermelon and green herb whey, to the vegetal and fragrant ratatouille en fleur on puff pastry, served alongside a clarified tomato and lavender consomme, then landing on the incredibly decadent foie gras egg custard topped with a lip-sticking jus and generous shavings of black truffle.
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For a truly complex and faceted personality, however, the limited-edition label of 18 Year Old Mizunara is a memorable exhibition of Suntory’s prodigious handling of the rare oak cask that is now recognised as a signature of its whiskies. The highly rare wood expresses itself best over longer ageing in order to attain the ideal profile, guaranteeing a spice-heavy intensity of sandalwood, cinnamon, clove and prominent tannins. In this amber creation (which, as opposed to most spirits, may benefit from a swirl and some time to breathe prior to partaking), one detects wafts of stone fruit and nutmeg followed by a palate of orange, while the overarching minerality and incense recall — to borrow Fukuyo’s words — “a temple washed with rain”. Paired with this highly nuanced dram is a piece of Cherry Valley duck breast, aged for five days, patiently seared to achieve an evenly crisp skin separated from the toothsome meat by a fine layer of fat. To the side, paté and slivers of plum add a touch of dimension to the dish.
Dessert ends the night with some lively theatrics: Skillet’s famous Texture of Chocolate takes on a caramel and banana form to complement the liquor. Icy plumes of liquid nitrogen and a wooden mallet for a smash-it-yourself element invigorate the crowd to receive their concluding drink. Departing from the first three, the 18 Year Peated Malt hails from the Hakushu distillery, which was founded in 1973 to commemorate Yamazaki’s 50th anniversary. Verdant, herbaceous top notes of sage and apple give a vibrant nose, with more depth to be gleaned in the grapefruit and acacia honey character underpinned by green citrus, a credit to its lush forest home. The overarching, clean smokiness that embraces the senses is furthermore thanks to the primary use of American oak. Precious shards of fleur de cao 70% make a satisfying couple with this golden glass, and the cool, melt-in-your-mouth crumbles, punctuated by a shattered nest of dried banana crisps, proves a fascinating combination of textures with a very agreeable levity with which to close the evening.
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The highly coveted set is priced at RM29,999 with limited available quantities, so collectors and enthusiasts are urged to act swiftly.
The 2024 Tsukuriwake Series is currently available at select retailers and venues across Malaysia, including Kampachi at EQ Kuala Lumpur and The Chamber.
This article first appeared on Oct 28, 2024 in The Edge Malaysia.
