The 18 Aged Years epitomises the distillery’s unpeated house style (All photos: Bruichladdich)
In the realm of liquor, it is common for the name of a place to become synonymous with certain designations, standards or characteristics: sparkling wine from Champagne, brandy from Cognac, dry gin from London. Located in southwest Scotland, the island of Islay is one such renowned location: The discerning drinker will almost always anticipate a single malt bearing this region’s name to possess a powerfully peated, rich and smoky quality.
The Bruichladdich distillery’s eponymous whisky range, however, exhibits none of these traits. This unicorn from the “Queen of the Hebrides” — as the isle is also known — differentiates itself by a distinctly non-peated character, instead presenting with flavours intended to encapsulate the lush terroir of its home. Crafted exclusively from locally sourced barley, the production of its flagship Scotch is also distinguished by its use of unusually tall copper pot stills, a method that yields especially fruity, floral and clean notes. Additionally, the barrels are aged in the region rather than being transferred to the Mainland; this creates a salt crust build-up on the exterior of the casks due to exposure to the coastal sighs over time, imparting a markedly oceanic profile.
The brand not only champions a deep connection to the land and giving back to its tight-knit agricultural community, but retains a progressive commitment of sustainable production and reducing its carbon footprint. Its most essential product, The Classic Laddie, for example, features a new design that uses a plastic-free stopper as opposed to a plant-based one, creating a more stable polypropylene cork that reduces risk of breakage. The taller shape with a shorter neck enables spatial maximisation within the pallet, allowing more bottles to fit, while the optimised constitution of 60% recycled glass is 32% lighter than its predecessor, contributing to easier transport and an aggregate reduction of CO2 emissions by 65%. The iconic aquamarine colour is also achieved using organic ink.
An added particularity of all Bruichladdich bottles is the five-digit transparency code inscribed on the side. When entered into the website, this key allows you to check the barley origin, cask types and number of vintages, ensuring each bottle is fully traceable.
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Inside, the lightly golden liquid exudes a nose of barley sugar and fresh wildflowers, emerging as daisies, buttercups and cherry blossoms, underscored by salt-soaked spindrift owing to the ocean sprays that have weathered the barrels. The fruity aroma rises in the form of lightly caramelised lemon and tangerine. Wafting is best done below the lips in order to acclimate the senses to the stronger-than-average 50% alcohol by volume, another idiosyncrasy of this spirit. A higher percentage is required to maintain clarity as Bruichladdich chooses to forgo the chill filtration process — a cosmetic technique for combatting cloudiness by stripping the natural fats and oils from a whisky.
After a small sip to prime the palate, one finds this drink is fronted by a sea salt-esque minerality, accompanied by a very refreshing mouth of lightly cooked cereals. The maritime character is tame in its sweetness, evoking brown sugar and vanilla coupled with fruitier tinges of green apple and apricot. The malted, yeasty essence makes for an almost savoury touch, as the lively and harmonious profile concludes with a vibrant finish.
A more decadent showcase of the Hebridean distillery’s values, however, is the recently unveiled ultra-high provenance Bruichladdich Eighteen, launched in Malaysia last month at an event by Rémy Cointreau at Dark TTDI. The release marks the brand’s first permanent high age statement range since its renaissance in 2001, when it was purchased by Simon Coughlin and
Mark Reynier following a period of closure, and industry legend Jim McEwan took the helm as master distiller. Conceived with the vision of redefining luxury whisky, this bottle aims for minimalism as opposed to the typical bells and whistles. The 3D-printed, fully recyclable bespoke dark blue paper shell encasing the product is an industry first, again reiterating the company’s dedication to premium, environmentally conscious practices.
This handsome vintage boasts a ripe and fragrant aroma of peach, dried orange peel and honeysuckle with lavender, recalling the creator’s signature fruity florals, with a stronger presentation of vanilla owing to the predominant use of American ex-bourbon casks. The overall perfume is reminiscent of crème brûlée, lightly chocolatey, with sprightly citrus orange.
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At this age, the Eighteen is a more unctuous tipple, with a dryness from the small amount of port and sauternes barrels used, and a persistent sweet barley sincerity. Its maturity manifests as well-defined cooked sugar notes of rich caramel and luscious butterscotch, reminiscent of syrup-soaked oatmeal and warm, freshly-baked biscuits. A complement of tropical freshness emerges in the form of juicy, honey-drizzled melon, with soft creaminess from the retained oils and rounded closing notes of toasted oak and stone fruit.
Current head distiller at Bruichladdich Adam Hannett states, “Eighteen years ago, we distilled spirit from locally grown barley and our passion to diversify and champion our cereal growing programme has never wavered. It’s about making delicious whisky with real provenance that also benefits the Islay community — and the Bruichladdich Eighteen is the embodiment of this ethos.”
This article first appeared on Nov 11, 2024 in The Edge Malaysia.
