Cazuela is Peru’s version of claypot cooking (All photos: Torito)
Peruvian cuisine has been the world’s culinary darling for some time now — and with good reason. From the star-studded appeal of Lima-based chefs like Virgilio Martínez of Central (voted No 1 restaurant in 2023 by World’s 50 Best, making history in the process as the first South American dining room to do so) to Gastón Acurio of Astrid y Gastón and Mitsuharu Tsumura of Maido to the dizzying variety of indigenous ingredients such as quinoa and maca root (often nicknamed Peruvian ginseng), which not only taste good but are classified as superfoods, the country justifiably deserves the overwhelming recognition that has been heaped upon it. Part of the reason lies, of course, in the sheer diversity of its produce, the happy result of a varied geography that ranges from the mountainous Andes (where the potato is believed to have been first cultivated 10,000 years ago) to the Amazon rainforest and all the wonderful seafood of the Pacific Ocean.
Beyond traditional dishes like ceviche, quite possibly the most famous local dish featuring raw fish cured with lime and chili, there are also hybrid cuisines to explore and enjoy (not unlike our own Peranakan or Chetti tastes and flavours), which have manifested themselves in the form of Nikkei and Chifa food. Credit must go to Nobu Matsuhisa — yes, he of the eponymous chic restaurant chain — for putting the former on the world map. A term used to describe the fusion of Peruvian ingredients with a distinct Japanese streak, Nikkei has since become a flag-bearer for the country. Meanwhile, Chifa, Chinese-accented this time, began endearing itself to the local palate after waves of documented Chinese migrants arrived in the mid-1800s to work the railroads, in the mines and in coastal sugar plantations, bringing along with them soy sauce and creating nouveau dishes like arroz chaufa, a take on the classic chow fan or Cantonese fried rice.
With Nobu well entrenched in Kuala Lumpur’s dining scene, followed by Feliz at Avenue K and the more Latin American Amazonas at The Exchange TRX, the city welcomes yet another player with the shiny new Torito. Offering primarily Nikkei flavours, the open-concept kitchen is helmed by Peruano chef Ivan Casusol. Occupying a lofty perch on the 53rd level of the Banyan Tree hotel, meals here come with the undeniable bonus of a KL skyline view.
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Upon arrival, one is greeted by the sight of several brightly painted decorative bulls, a nod to Torito de Pucará, whose history dates back to the arrival of the conquistadores. A folk, clay-based art from Pucará, Puno in the country’s south that represents fertility and familial protection, it is common to find the toritos (Spanish for “little bull”) adorning homes or even on the roofs of houses.
The best way to begin any evening here is, of course, with a Pisco Sour (RM54) and Torito’s does a palatably authentic one, although to keep up with the times, there are additional options in the form of more contemporary flavours like lemongrass, cinnamon and apple, passionfruit, strawberry-raspberry and orange-yuzu. Sip while nibbling on pan de yuca (RM32), a pillowy, gluten-free bread made from cassava and a staple of the country’s Amazonian region, served interestingly — not with butter or olive oil — but Peruvian chili sauce!
The country’s aforementioned diversity is clearly captured in the menu, which offers flavours from its coastline via gratinated scallops or conchas (RM70), the clearly Chifa Bao Lomo (RM58) or steamed buns with beef brisket or Nikkei-style rolls starring rice with unagi, salmon, octopus or crab (RM70). But sometimes all you want is the taste of tradition and this calls for cazuela, a term generally used to denote food cooked over charcoal in a claypot. Designed for sharing, there are five to choose from, each starring a different protein, from the seafood-based Mariscos (RM180) to tiger prawn (RM160) and duck leg confit (RM145). We plumped for Seco de Res (RM165), which uses Australian beef tenderloin served with the iconic tacu tacu, or soft pan-fried mayocoba beans and rice.
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The portions are not overly dainty so go easy when ordering as most dishes are generous enough to pass around, giving you the bandwidth to try more things — a factor that will certainly endear Torito to Malaysians. The side dishes are also not an afterthought and embody as much of Peru’s culinary history and traditions as the main courses.
Those who do not shy from carbs would fall in love with Huancaina (RM32), double-fried potatoes and baby corn smeared with the ubiquitous yellow sauce that is spicy and creamy all at once, traditionally made using aji amarillo, queso blanco, saltine crackers and evaporated milk. Aguacate (RM40), served with mixed root chips, is the country’s answer to guacamole and, for something refreshing, do not miss the deceptively simple Tomate (RM32), which are heirloom tomatoes, sliced and accompanied by fava beans, olive oil and miso-yoghurt dressing — exceedingly flavourful and a wonderful way to temper more robust orders.
Based in Asia for the past seven years, Casusol has taken it upon himself to source and serve true Peruvian offerings. So, in the coming months, expect to see chicha morada (a sweet and spicy drink made from purple corn) on the menu or even Inca Kola, guaranteeing a blast from the past for old hippies at heart or whoever has trekked their way to Machu Picchu using the Camino del Inca and depended on the fizzy soda to instantly stave off altitude sickness or revive flagging spirits.
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The restaurant, which seats 80, cleverly wraps itself around the building so one is not confronted with a cavernous space. Rather, the feeling is cosy and intimate — perfect for dining à deux. Small eaters (but big drinkers) could also eschew the tables in favour of sitting at the Cevicheria, a dedicated bar counter designed for cocktails and snacking.
It is only Torito’s desserts that, somehow, fail to please. For example, the supposed must-try Cristal Cake (RM90), a clear jelly confection, was not available (a no-no for a newly opened restaurant) while the arroz con leche (RM35) could not tempt us beyond a few bites. Even the seemingly fail-safe chocolate ice cream (RM18) was a let-down, adulterated by the unusual (and unwelcome) addition of crushed peanuts. There was no sign of, say, trendy sweets like yucamochi, the gorgeously colourful and sticky Turron de Doña Pepa or even manjar blanco (Peru’s answer to dulce de leche), best eaten sandwiched between melt-in-your-mouth, short bread-y alfajores cookies. But seeing as sugar remains top of the middle-aged person’s cardinal sins, perhaps it was just as well. At Torito, the maxim would be to come for the food, stay for the view and skip dessert for one last drink for the road. But only if you are not driving yourself, of course.
Torito, Level 53, Banyan Tree Hotel, 2 Jalan Conlay, KL. Daily, lunch (12pm to 4.30pm); dinner (6pm to 10pm).
This article first appeared on Dec 23, 2024 in The Edge Malaysia.
