Charcoal-grilled sawara (Spanish mackerel) with midin (All photos: K Kaiseki)
The counter seats at K Kaiseki on the 37th floor of Menara Ilham may not grant immediate access to the grandiose KL skyline, but they do offer their own cinema. Weaving from station to station in the open kitchen, chef Hidemichi Seki’s movements are calm, focused and dutiful — arranging herbs with tweezers, peeking under steamer lids and quietly commanding his team.
K, which had its grand opening in February, is a tranquil temple of dark wood touched with warm moody glows. Its name is represented by the Japanese character for “polished gem” (pronounced “kei”), formed by combining two symbols for “earth” as a poetic tribute to the land. Accents like the antique Baba Nyonya seats or toothy bronze “guard dog” K-kun breathe an artistic flair into the space, while the absolute care given to its finer points — incomparably exquisite dishware or the fun of selecting your own saké glass from nine gorgeous options — truly place the customer at the core of this opulent experience.
“Kaiseki is a traditional Japanese cooking style which allows guests to experience culture and aesthetics,” elucidates the Saitama-born chef. “Seasonal ingredients and flavours are valued, and emphasis is placed on the overall harmony of colours and textures. Also, visual beauty is prioritised — the choice of tableware plays an important role in enhancing the meal.”
Formerly of the two Michelin-starred Tenku Ryugin in Hong Kong, Seki remembers enjoying elaborate family dinners of Cantonese cuisine prepared by his chef father. While his background has exposed him to various global culinary methodologies, he points out the importance of mindfulness and restraint. “I am conscious of not mixing techniques or elements chaotically. [At K,] I try to express Malaysian produce in a complex and minimalist way, respecting the individuality of each one.”
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Our visit treats us to a slightly different menu than usual with newly implemented extras, Seki tells us, but therein lies the novelty of K. While there are larger plans to rotate the menus based on the seasons, individual dishes and microadjustments are made on a day-to-day basis, always taking advantage of the best produce and the chef’s sudden inspirations. Not only that, the restaurant keeps track of what a patron eats and when, so repeat guests are guaranteed a different experience.
Ever on the hunt to discover new foods, Seki was attracted by the abundant natural environment in this country, as its geography and culture make it an ideal location for studying other cuisines. His latest fascination, Thai food, is integrated gracefully from the opening dish: delectable Sarawakian white clams in a thickened, savoury stock above a silky egg custard garnished with pak kayang leaves — an herb used predominantly in the Isan region. When bitten, it unleashes a bitter vegetal essence with hints of cardamom and citrus that enlivens the rich, coastal umami of the warming first course. Similarly, the later appearance of black grouper steamed in fig and cinnamon leaves and served with watercress and spicy sour somtam sauce deftly juxtaposes subtle and bold flavours.
The third item celebrates the exciting bounty of the local land, using vegetables and herbs freshly picked by K’s dedicated forager, who scours neighbouring states for premium produce. Our bowl consists of chayote, heirloom carrot, bell pepper, rocket, young ginseng leaf, Chinese violets, nasturtium, marigold, dill, salted dried gooseberries and fried dragonfruit bud, tossed in a tangy, fermented gooseberry miso dressing. Each bite of the vibrant garden thrills the palate with a unique permutation of tastes and textures, elevated further by several divine bits of raw chicken liver marinated in sweet wine. “The vegetable bowl is one of the most time-consuming. It requires so much work,” reveals the chef.
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Indeed, no expense of effort is spared when it comes to preparations here: For the corn dish, each juicy white kernel is individually peeled with a toothpick to ensure a perfect mouthfeel. This is served atop a bed of sweet corn pudding, biodynamic century egg and burnt corn juice for a sublime marriage of fresh and preserved elements. The pairing is an homage to Cantonese corn and century egg soup, while the circle of burnt coconut jelly crowning it represents an Indian influence suggested to Seki by fellow chef Sricharan Venkatesh during a trip to Brickfields. The attention to detail does not stop there. The Japanese perfectionist goes as far as to blend different types of water or boiling stones to achieve the ideal pH value or mineral content, citing how different types of stocks, rice and tea react to the chemical composition.
Oyster ice cream comes as our eighth course, served on grilled shirako (cod milt) and a shell-shaped cracker, topped with nori powder. “The first version was just raw oyster with a cucumber and vanilla jelly, but guests found it too shocking. The feedback was lukewarm, which is why I ended up changing it several more times before reaching this iteration. But oyster, cucumber and vanilla is a very good combination! Maybe one day I’ll be able to bring it back,” he smiles hopefully.
Sampling this region’s specialities has been a great inspiration as well. “I love nasi ulam,” enthuses Seki. The saba ulam sushi is his interpretation of the version with mackerel from Table & Apron in Petaling Jaya, made with shimesaba (vinegar marinated mackerel) and myōga ginger in crisp seaweed, and accompanied by the familiar accoutrements of mixed pickles and miso soup. Asked how native ingredients compare to those from his home country, he explains, “I get to do more cooking with Malaysian ingredients. The fragrance is stronger, I can’t serve it too simply, whereas Japanese ones tend to benefit from being served in their purest state. Our menu reflects an authentically Japanese spirit that has adapted to the local elements.”
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At a generous minimum of 15 courses, you can forget the sardonic narrative of miniscule portions leaving diners hungry. But should you somehow find yourself with too much room before dessert, you can easily request a supplementary course of carbs to fill up. We are surprised with handmade ramen noodles in a creamy yet clean duck broth, with small dollops of calamansi koshō and red chilli kōji on the side for optional spice. “I never put it on the menu, it’s more a part of my hobby. If a customer is still hungry, I’ll serve it,” says the chef. “I like making noodles — ramen, soba, pasta.
“The original plan was just a 12-course menu, but I could not stop coming up with more,” he laughs, adding how conventional kaiseki tends to be within the eight to 10 range. “The portions are not too big, so hopefully guests don’t get too full. At first, we contemplated doing five courses of dessert! But I requested chef Elwyn [Boyles] to rein it in a bit.” Double dessert is still a sweet deal though. Boyles’ iced mangosteen and gula kabung custard are both exquisite presentations of beloved local elements.
Every trip to K is closed with grandeur, with the staff revealing a magnificent chest of colourful mignardises for guests to choose from. Jewel-like bonbons of matcha and passionfruit or peanut butter and jelly, calamansi macaron coins, macadamia dragées dusted in cocoa and hojicha powder, golden pineapple tarts (the house signature) and sparkling mango passionfruit caramels are the treasures tempting us. To pair with these sugary finishers, a frothy bowl of matcha awaits those not daunted by caffeine.
When the meal ends, we spot the kitchen crew working on tomorrow’s prep and some extra projects — Seki is attempting to recreate a fermented sausage he tried the last time he was in Isan. Dabai and stingray are also on his mind. But no matter what may find its way to his chopping board in the future, his dedication to delivering truly exceptional food is clear. “I want people to experience everything this land has to offer. The new value created by cooking familiar ingredients carefully, rather than frivolously lavish ones, reflects a chef’s skill and pride. It’s about honouring my roots while finding new ways to tell Malaysia’s story through flavours.”
37th Floor, Ilham Tower, 8 Jalan Binjai, KL. Open Wed-Sat, 711pm. For reservations, contact 012 409 2114 or email k.reservations@idc-foods.com.
This article first appeared on Feb 24, 2025 in The Edge Malaysia.
