Dive into the world of craft gins with these unique offerings (All photos: Patrick Goh/The Edge Malaysia)
It began over a game of golf,” laugh Jean Khoo and Goh Ying Li, the minds behind GainBrands, when asked how their company was conceived. Having established their enterprise in 2020 with the intention of bringing artisanal spirits to Malaysia, these friends on the green and at the bar did not let the throes of the pandemic stop them from extending their partnership into business. Gin, their exclusive focus, is a field with room for growth in the country as opposed to the more dominant whisky market, and therein lies opportunity.
GainBrands carries a cosmopolitan selection of Belgian, Danish, Australian, German, Spanish and Japanese bottles, with some remarkably unusual flavour profiles including tomato, green apple, mint and even bubblegum. Of these, four stand out from the pack — Xibal, Giass, Twisted Nose and SoulSister Melaka Edition — for their distinct personalities, origins and tastes. Whether you like to indulge in a fun tipple or prefer something strong to sip on, a foray into the world of artisanal gins beginning with this quartet promises an exciting experience beyond your everyday liquors.
But why these special craft labels? Well, they explain, “Our original partner was travelling a lot and she’s passionate about gins, so she’s the one who curated these and linked them to us.”
Starting off strong, Xibal from Guatemala does not pull any punches. Hand-distilled through a copper alembic, the glossy clear liquid fills the nostrils with warm spices and a tinge of citrus. The first sips deliver a strong cardamom flavour while black pepper and coriander imbue a spiciness that finishes quite fresh with pericon. A few rocks add welcome levity and cut through the 45% alcohol by volume (ABV) to really open up the intermingling of the botanicals. A simple concoction of lime and soda water plays nicely with the bold character of this award-winning spirit, while orange and even chilli could make great garnishes.
The silk-screen-printed lattice design of Giass, inspired by the floors of Italy’s Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, perfectly conveys the flavours within: exceedingly elegant, sophisticated and vibrant. For all the complexity of its 18 botanicals, this Milanese dry gin is incredibly harmonious, with a fragrant zestiness that suggests chamomile and apple. The initial mild sweetness and florals gracefully bow out as a lasting citrus and verbena take the stage, resulting in a well-balanced finish. While a little ice is enough for a clean and simple drink, mixing Giass with raspberry cordial, lemon and soda makes for a refreshing pink treat.
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On the topic of gorgeous bottles, the swirling blue-green textures of the Twisted Nose from Winchester, the UK, will grab your attention before blowing you away with its intense aromas. Starring locally grown watercress as its unique botanical, its peppery sparkle is complemented by a wonderful lavender note, perfuming this bottle with a full, herbaceous brightness. Grapefruit and fennel present themselves to the palate, with the slight spiciness and citrus being gradually unveiled. Twisted Nose lends its talents beautifully to a G&T garnished with rosemary, where a hint of soda helps give this spirit a little extra room to flex its bountiful bouquet. If you’re looking to get a taste of this gin before committing to a full 700ml, Gin Rik Sha in Bukit Damansara, Kuala Lumpur, features the Twisted Elixir cocktail on its menu, a deep purplish tipple with infused Twisted Nose and coconut syrup.
Finally, we come to the SoulSister Melaka Edition, a proprietary label of GainBrands inspired by the flavours of the straits. Made in Manchester, the one-shot distillation method uses reduced heat to slowly extract the oils from the botanicals. Pleasantly sweet and easy considering the 40% ABV, pomelo and orange tickle the nose while the tongue savours notes of torch ginger, candlenut and nutmeg — perfect for the occasional partaker. The juicy, satisfying flavours need little help expressing their brilliance. Enjoy with ginger beer to accentuate the spices or keep it cool with some cucumber slices topped with fizz.
In case it was not evident, when it comes to mixing a beverage, the GainBrands duo stresses that simplicity is best. Though most people think Gs should be followed by Ts, Khoo and Goh actually recommend a combination of soda and tonic (or “sonic” as they call it), because the latter often proves too sweet and overpowering. “Gone are the days of harsh gins that are just for mixing. With these, they’re so well crafted, super smooth. You don’t need anything else.”
Their recommendations reflect realistic, no-fuss ingredients for home drinking — who wants to be juicing fruit and measuring liqueurs after a long day when ice and a quality mixer work wonders?
Despite the introduction of newer gins over recent years, many are still quite commercial, leaving little opportunity or awareness for the craft stuff. Another obstacle to bringing in these brands is price: a weak exchange rate and rising costs of logistics mean some would retail for inaccessibly high. “Yes, [Malaysians] are willing to buy a premium product but there are limits to how premium they can be,” admits Goh. Aside from bars and restaurants, the company is continuing to explore new ways to expose the mainstream market to the beauty of artisanal gins.
To finish, Khoo emphasises the special touch behind their craft gins: “You cannot compare these to your mainstream labels. It’s a different quality; these are all made with a lot of affection and in small batches, often in family distilleries.” The adage “in vino veritas, in aqua sanitas” does not have a ruling for hard spirits, but if the passion of these two enthusiasts is anything to go by, in gin lies love — and a good time.
The RuMa Hotel in KL will be having a Giass gin promotion from Sept 5 to Oct 31 and debut specialty cocktails at its Seven bar and Atas restaurant as well as in-room bottle sales.
This article first appeared on Aug 12, 2024 in The Edge Malaysia.
