Surender started taking part in competitions in 2013 but it was only 10 years later that he won his first barista championship (All photos: Sam Fong/The Edge)
The Cream by The Roast Things café at Petaling Jaya’s Dataran Prima had a comforting aroma of freshly brewed coffee as we stepped inside, greeted by the familiar sounds of clinking cups and gentle hum of conversation. We were promptly directed upstairs, where amid the rhythmic grind of coffee beans and the graceful dance of swirling milk, barista Surender Kumar stood behind the counter, fully immersed in his craft.
We met ahead of the World Barista Championship in Busan, South Korea, and the intensity of preparation permeated the air. Surender advanced to the championship after winning the GIGI Coffee Malaysia Barista Championship 2023 organised by the Malaysia Specialty Coffee Association in May last year.
The world championship, hosted annually by World Coffee Events (WCE), is a premier global competition. Its mission is to promote coffee excellence, elevate the barista craft and captivate audiences globally through a grand event that crowns the best of the best baristas from around the world.
Each year, over 50 champion contenders craft four espressos, four milk beverages and four unique signature drinks within a 15-minute window, accompanied by music. Esteemed WCE-certified judges from diverse corners of the globe assess each performance, scrutinising factors such as taste, cleanliness, creativity, technical prowess and overall presentation.
As soon as Surender took a break, we asked him about the training drill, which we noticed was meticulous to a tee. “When brewing coffee, consistency is key, as even small variables can alter the flavour. Therefore, precise measurements ensure repeatability, much like following a baking recipe with exact amounts of flour, sugar, eggs and vanilla essence, as well as precise baking times and temperatures,” he explained of the regimen to ensure consistent results. The intuitive agak-agak method does not apply here.
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The preparation for the competition was quite intense. It involved various aspects, such as refining vocabulary and practising skills extensively. This included spending countless hours perfecting flow, timing and routine execution, which demanded both stamina and energy. “So far, I’ve completed 115 routines, aiming to reach 150 before the competition. Some days, I manage to complete five or six routines.
“My focus is on honing my delivery. I believe effective communication is crucial in providing a complete experience for the judges. Therefore, I’ve been working on articulating my thoughts and explaining my process clearly. This, alongside making coffee, takes considerable time and effort.”
Competing has taught Surender valuable communication skills, and the diverse nature of the coffee industry has further enriched his understanding. Each community shares a passion for coffee, but their perspectives vary, he said. “As I prepare for the world stage, I’m learning to comprehend and articulate my beliefs about coffee more effectively. While day-to-day skills can be developed through repetition, mastering comprehension requires a different approach.”
To calm his nerves during competitions, he focuses on breathing exercises and shifts the body’s natural responses from nervousness to excitement. By reframing this, he said, one can approach the situation differently, accepting the feelings and changing perspectives. Mishaps during performances are inevitable, which is why practice is essential to foster a sense of preparedness. “I’m only satisfied once I’ve completed my routine in the finals, and even then, I am always analysing how I can do better.”
Surender started taking part in competitions in 2013 but it was only 10 years later that he won his first barista championship. “Joining any competition is always rewarding because the entire process challenges and brings out different facets of oneself, including discipline, abilities and the willingness to fail and learn. It’s not just about brewing coffee; it also aligns your principles and values with what you present. For me, the best highlight would probably be the 2023 win, which had a humbling effect. It’s fulfilling to see hard work does pay off.”
Surender said representing Malaysia on the world stage at the World Barista Championship was an incredible honour and a dream come true. “It’s the pinnacle of coffee competitions, akin to the Olympics for baristas. The sense of patriotism and the overwhelming support I have received make the experience even more special. I’ve always aspired to represent my country in some way, and that dream has become a reality.”
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This year, Surender was accompanied by his assistant Anwar Fauzi, coach, mentor and three-time Malaysia Barista Champion Jason Loo, who also serves as his “verifying guide, to see the things I don’t”, and wife, Emma Jasmin.
On one of his routines, creating a signature drink, he said the aim is to craft a creative drink using any consumable and legal ingredient within the rules — excluding alcohol. The range of ingredients available is vast. “To approach this, I visualise the final cup and its taste, then strategise how to achieve it. This involves imagining the flavour profile and then working backwards to create it. The key to a successful signature drink lies in understanding taste balance. This entails achieving harmony among various taste characteristics, such as bitterness, sweetness, acidity, saltiness and aftertaste, to create a balanced sensory experience.”
Reflecting on his younger days, the 33-year-old admitted to not really knowing what he wanted to do, especially after finishing high school. However, he found himself intrigued by the hospitality side of things, particularly hotel management and the service industry. This interest stemmed from his curiosity about food and drinks. Thus, he decided to pursue hospitality management and began working part-time in coffee outlets. He has been on a roll since.
“Growing up, I often heard that I wasn’t good at anything. But whenever I made coffee and someone complimented me, I started to think that maybe this was something worth pursuing. I love receiving compliments, and those positive remarks boosted my confidence,” he said. Making coffee became a way for Surender to express himself and build his self-assurance over time.
“I saw coffee as a craft I wanted to explore further, especially through barista championships where I could showcase my skills and learn from others. In the coffee industry, there are always opportunities to compete and demonstrate your abilities, which motivated me to participate in competitions and improve. This journey has taught me to find satisfaction within myself and recognise my own worth, bringing a sense of personal peace and fulfilment.”
Surender is also the co-founder of Ruits Juices Malaysia, a venture dedicated to providing juices, smoothie bowls and other wholesome and natural food that is reshaping perspectives on health.
This article first appeared on May 6, 2024 in The Edge Malaysia.
