The comet and ribbon are both important symbols in Chanel's collection (All photos: Chanel)
The allure of diamonds has captivated women for centuries, symbolising not only beauty and wealth but also an array of deeper, more personal meanings. These sparkling gemstones are prized for their unmatched brilliance, created through a combination of clarity, cut and colour that allows them to reflect light like no other.
Beyond their physical attributes, diamonds are often associated with timeless love and commitment, making them the quintessential choice for engagement rings and other major life milestones.
Culturally, diamonds have been woven into the fabric of societal values, representing status and success. Their rarity and the difficulty of obtaining them add to their desirability, making each a unique treasure. The emotional significance attached to this gemstone is profound; they are often seen as heirlooms, passed down through generations, carrying stories and memories that transcend time.
Gabrielle Bonheur “Coco” Chanel revolutionised the world of fashion with her timeless designs and bold creativity. Her influence extended beyond clothing into the realm of high jewellery with the creation of Bijoux de Diamants in 1932. Her first and only high jewellery range was a groundbreaking testament to her visionary approach, featuring motifs such as the famous star, intricately designed stones and the innovative use of wax figures for displays. Her daring creativity continues to permeate the high jewellery collections today, reflecting her enduring legacy of elegance and innovation.
Recently, a select audience was invited to explore the Chanel high jewellery universe at the Presidential Suite of Banyan Tree Kuala Lumpur, in a setting that emulates the jewellery showcase of the founder in her atelier back in the day. For the first time on Malaysian shores, 40 iconic pieces were displayed and we could immediately see there are some running motifs that, time and again, feature in Chanel’s collection. Some of these exquisite jewels will be available in the boutique until September, offering a rare opportunity to soak in the stunning sparklers up close.
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The Lion: Sign of strength + protection
Coco was born under the sign of Leo on Aug 19, 1883. The zodiac sign representing majesty, instinct, radiance and power became a significant symbol for her. After the devastating loss of her great love, Arthur Edward “Boy” Capel, in 1919, Coco sought solace in Venice. There, under the watchful gaze of the Lion of Venice, she found the strength to continue her journey. The beast became a personal emblem for her, appearing on the buttons of her iconic tweed suits, representing protection and courage. This powerful symbol is deeply embedded in Chanel’s high jewellery, for it truly embodies the spirit and resilience of its founder.
The Camélia: Emblem of simplicity + purity
The camellia, a flower originating from Asia, held a special place in Coco’s heart. In the 19th century, upper-class gentlemen wore camellias on their lapels to signify status and taste. She adopted this motif from men’s fashion, placing it on her waistband as a symbol of simplicity and purity. Unlike the opulent rose, the camellia, with its fragrance-free and thornless nature, reflected her ethos of understated elegance.
In 1913, she was famously photographed with a white camellia fastened to her waistband, a motif she would often contrast against a little black dress. The flower continues to be a mainstay, as seen in the Fleur de Nacre set, which beautifully blends white gold, diamonds and mother-of-pearl. In this collection, too, her love of Coromandel screens is evident; a true meeting of East and West.
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No 5: Eternal icon
Numerology played a significant role in Coco’s life, with the number “5” holding particular importance. The fragrance became a global sensation when Hollywood pin-up Marilyn Monroe famously declared she wore only that to bed and nothing else, cementing its status as an icon of eternal beauty and muse for countless Chanel creations. Inspired by her iconic fragrance, Chanel No 5, the high jewellery collection captures the essence of the perfume as it disperses on the skin. The diamonds cascade down the décolletage, symbolising timeless beauty and femininity.
The Comet: Symbol of hope + freedom
Coco’s childhood in a convent-run orphanage in Aubazine left a lasting impression on her. Daily, she walked past pebblestone star patterns in the hallway and gazed at the night sky, wishing upon the stars. This celestial motif became central to her first high jewellery collection, featuring a distinctive star with a large central diamond surrounded by smaller ones. The comet-themed designs embody her desire to liberate women from traditional constraints, offering them freedom and elegance. The comet necklace, which gracefully encircles the neck, was crafted with a poignant belief: When one comet’s journey ends, another begins. It was an infinite hope for her, reminiscent of her childhood days at the orphanage and sealed with a promise of hope and good luck to accompany the wearer.
The Ribbon: Feminine sophistication
Coco’s first love, Boy Capel, often reminded her of her femininity. She then took to wearing a bow and incorporating them into her designs. In her first high jewellery collection, the ribbon motif represented subtle femininity and grace. Delicately-set diamonds evoke brilliance and luminosity, gently resting on the collarbone to enhance a woman’s allure.
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Watches: Masterpieces of elegance + precision
Chanel’s watchmaking prowess is exemplified in the J12 X-Ray Calibre 3.1 and the J12 Flying Tourbillon. These watches, developed entirely in-house, showcase a perfect blend of function and elegance. The streamlined silhouette of the J12 X-Ray, with its crystal-clear movement, reflects her principle of streamlining the silhouette, akin to her design of the little black jacket. The J12 Flying Tourbillon, featuring a diamond-cut in 65 facets, highlights Coco’s love of the brilliant rocks and their timeless appeal. These watches, though often perceived as masculine, invite women to embrace their elegance and sophistication.
The Metiers d’Art collection, which takes a leaf from the Mademoiselle Privé Bouton line, pays homage to the haute couture workshop where she spent much of her life. These secret watches feature exquisite designs, such as the tweed pattern with Australian cultured pearl and quilted patent leather with pink tourmaline and mother-of-pearl carved in camellia form. All one needs to do is slide open the button to reveal the dial. Each timepiece is a testament to her meticulous attention to detail and dedication to creating timeless elegance.
In 1932, Coco revolutionised jewellery display by presenting her pieces on wax mannequins, believing that they look best when worn. This innovative approach continues to influence Chanel’s high jewellery presentations today. After we were shown around the collection on display, the models walked out with brilliant creations for us to “ooh” and “aah” over, bringing Coco Chanel’s vision to life.
This article first appeared on July 29, 2024 in The Edge Malaysia.
