The three iterations are limited to 33 pieces each (All photos: Bvlgari)
Slithering into the futuristic sci-fi world of maverick watch brand MB&F, Bvlgari’s iconic Serpenti, once elegant and lithe, has metamorphosed into a sharp and fierce viper.
Reimagining the Serpenti into a Horological Machine required a complete redevelopment of the historical piece, not only in terms of engineering and movement conception, but also case design and manufacturing.
Hundreds of sketches and dozens of 3D-printed models attest to the intense design process. The goal was to create a dynamic shape where the view is radically different from all angles, yet equally satisfying and compelling.
The result is a case with complex curves encompassing the metal as well as five sapphire crystals for the snake’s eyes and head in addition to the rear section of the watch. The crystals are treated with anti-reflective coating on both sides.
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“The biomorphic design of this watch created enormous challenges in terms of the case but also the movement,” shares MB&F founder and creative director Maximilian Büsser. “The intricate case is entirely machined with 5-axis 3D mills and holds the five sapphire crystals which were not only extremely complicated to make but equally challenging to fit due to the curved nature of the case and the desire for a water resistance of 30 meters.”
From the get-go, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, director of watchmaking creation at Bvlgari, had his mind set on bringing the Serpenti to life by animating its eyes. MB&F materialised his idea by setting revolving hour and minute domes in the new serpent’s sockets. The left makes a full rotation in 12 hours and the right, in 60 minutes. These paper-thin domes are machined from solid aluminium to ensure they are as light as possible. Hand-applied Super-LumiNova gives the snake a luminous gaze when darkness falls.
Representing the brain is an oversized 14mm flying balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws beating at 2.5Hz (18,000bph). It is secured with a balance bridge bearing the both the partners’ names.
Initially, there were no plans to incorporate automobile design codes in the collaboration, but as Stigliani and Büsser are both avid enthusiasts, it was inevitable. The case’s sleek design also resemble the bodywork of a racing machine, especially at the rear: The “stepped” sapphire crystal are shaped like the flaps on the back window of a sports car, separate crowns for winding and time-setting take after wheels and a “grille” with the Serpenti’s hexagonal scale motif decorates the rear.
“This piece was a pleasure to design, but technically very challenging to produce,” says Stigliani. “The aim was to have a totally different vision. The snake is a magnificent object that appeals to many collectors. I think we succeeded in giving the Bvlgari serpent a new horizon. It is not just a feminine object linked to the brand’s DNA but, for the first time, a technical object that speaks to the Bvlgari aesthetic and showcases MB&F’s expertise. Like all good collaborations, it is a win-win project.”
The timepiece is limited to 99 pieces divided among three variations: grade 5 titanium with blue hour and minute domes, 18-carat rose gold with piercing green pupils and black PVD-coated stainless steel with vibrant red eyes.
In 2021, the the two brands collaborated on the LM FlyingT Allegra and introduced the Legacy Machine to the exuberant world of Bvlgari jewellery.
