From Oct 18 to 20, independent watch brands traded the snowy alps for sunny Singapore to take part in IAMWATCH (All photos: The Hour Glass)
The watchmaking business has not been spared from the luxury spending slump, but if history is anything to go by, the industry has weathered far more tempestuous times. Remarkable resilience is one thing the people in horology have in spades and it will certainly take more than a dark cloud to rain on their parade.
The fourth quarter is a critical period to make the most out of the year’s final months, and judging by the double- (even triple-) booked October calendar, the ball is rolling fast.
From Oct 18 to 20, independent watch brands traded the snowy alps for sunny Singapore to take part in IAMWATCH, The Hour Glass’ new community engagement platform. Those who remember Tempus, the retail group’s lauded exposition two decades ago, will be able to draw similarities between both events, chiefly a fair dedicated to enthusiasts.
IAMWATCH sheds the formality of stiff suits and shiny shoes for a more relaxed and approachable setting, which better reflects the easy-going nature of most watchmakers anyway. Guests were advised to lose the tie, dress “resort-casual” and come “double-wristed”, with the latter not only instigating a slew of Wakanda Forever poses, but doubling the amount of some serious wrist candy.
The three-day programme, hosted by The Singapore Edition Hotel, brought together industry luminaries and connoisseurs from around the globe who share a love for artisanal watchmaking. It was a rare opportunity for the Pan-Asian community to engage with their favourite independent watchmakers face to face and explore the works of other participating artisans, which also included clock manufactures such as L’Epée 1839 and Utinam, and knife maker Emmanuel Esposito. The best part? Anyone was free to join, though pre-registration was required.
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The vernissage a day earlier saw hundreds flooding into the ballroom, where more than 25 independent brands occupied the floor. Amid the sea of floral print and cabana shirts, one could not help but pick up on the genuine delight threading through the reunions and new encounters, as well as the glee that comes with finally trying on a holy-grail timepiece.
Crowds formed around the tables of the usual superstars, such as MB&F, Akrivia and Urwerk, with their respective founders Maximilian Büsser, Rexhep Rexhepi and Felix Baumgartner becoming human magnets for photos and conversation. LVMH scion Jean Arnault was also present, representing Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth.
“I am very pleased to be here,” said industry veteran Jean-Claude Biver, who spoke for his eponymous manufacture. “Singapore is such a great place. You have wonderful collectors and the people are aware of the art of watchmaking. I love being here and I’m very pleased that I have many customers in Singapore, so thank you very much for your support.”
The event was the perfect networking ground for younger brands such as Trilobe, Petermann Bédat and Théo Auffret to leave an impression. Remy Cools, the 26-year-old French watchmaker whose Tourbillon Atelier was nominated in the tourbillon category of this year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, said: “The enthusiasts here have a deep knowledge of watchmaking and it was really great to answer questions on how I manufacture the parts. I had incredible interactions with the collectors.”
It was also a good time for brands to flex their latest launches. Krayon’s Anywhere Arborea, though inspired by Henri Rousseau’s Virgin Forest with Sunset, looked right at home against Singapore’s tropical landscape. Limited to just 15 pieces, it features Krayon’s unique ephemeris complication, which allows the wearer to track sunrise and sunset times from any location in the world. The hand-painted dial poetically captures the soft fading light in Rousseau’s 1910 painting, highlighting the beauty of nature and its close association with time.
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Speaking of art, renowned illustrator and designer Lee Yuen-Rapati, who was responsible for the event’s visuals, “collected” watches via quick sketches of what the guests were wearing at the fair. “I’m giving this book to The Hour Glass after I fill the pages,” he said.
The Hour Glass was one of the first retailers that bet on the independents when they were still an obscure subset in the industry. Over the years, the demand in Southeast Asia flourished as consumers began to seek out something more unique.
“Our mission is really to advance watch culture,” said managing director Michael Tay. “In the realm of watch collecting, there is this genre called artisanal watchmaking and it really is all about independent makers who have decided to take the path less travelled to push forward their own creative vision.”
The players themselves took to the stage in a series of lectures and panel discussions over the three days to divulge personal experiences and the industry’s highs and lows. In his candid session, Büsser revealed why he sold a 25% stake in MB&F to Chanel, an unexpected move that sent shock waves through the industry in August.
Entrusting that portion to Chanel was part of his business continuity strategy, in view of the eventuality that he passes. It was not only an effort to perpetuate the quintessential MB&F DNA and protect his Friends at the company, but also to safeguard his family from being taken advantage of.
With 51 years of experience under his belt, Biver’s lecture was one of the most well attended. When asked how he was able to bring so much change to the brands he helmed, such as Blancpain, Omega and Hublot, he broke it down into three simple, but crucial, points: “If you are first, unique and different, there is no way you can lose.”
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Biver has faith in the new generation, especially his son Pierre, with whom he co-founded his brand.
“He has the eyes of tomorrow, while I have the eyes of yesterday,” he shared. And as for how he manages his people: “If you forbid failure, you forbid progress. My team makes mistakes, but they don’t repeat it.”
Biver humorously ended the session with these words: “If they repeat it, then you can send a recommendation letter of the person to your competitor!”
Beyond the realms of business, the programmes also explored time as a construct and its impact on civilisation and how we live. Tay was particularly excited about the lectures by British historian and author David Rooney, whom he reached out to after reading one of his books.
“I think far too often, people are enamoured with the idea that watches belong to the luxury sector, but the science of horology is extremely deep. And I hope what David accomplishes in his three-part series is to shift the mindset to an understanding that watchmaking is about science, history, art and craftsmanship,” Tay remarked.
The theoretical and philosophical notions of time, ageing and mortality were also examined via the screening of Keeper of Time, directed by Michael Culyba. The documentary offers a glimpse of the ateliers of Philippe Dufour, Roger W Smith, François-Paul Journe and Büsser. The film is available to rent online at keeperoftimemovie.com.
The transmission of knowledge is key to cultivating the healthy culture Tay mentioned earlier, but not only that, “It’s about people. And this human connection and spirit is important. My hope is that IAMWATCH becomes a platform that galvanises the community, to have people from different parts of the Asia-Pacific region come together and appreciate watch collecting as an incredibly open, diverse and friendly hobby”.
This article first appeared on Oct 28, 2024 in The Edge Malaysia.
