Note the classic camel-toned Nomade leather with yellow stitchings and a natural beige calf-leather lining on this watch (All photos: Louis Vuitton)
In a bold fusion of tradition and innovation, Louis Vuitton unveils the new Escale watch collection that boasts four time-only models.
A rather daring approach, we must say, but transformation is not new at the maison. Last year, it announced it would do away with 80% of its entry-level watches in a move to reposition the brand in the luxury watch sector. Sir Winston Churchill once said: “To improve is to change, to be perfect is to change often.” This sentiment is clearly reflected in the house’s continuous evolution.
This latest addition honours its illustrious past and unparalleled savoir faire in trunkmaking, serving as the creative anchor for the new Escale. The brand revolutionised travel with its flat-topped, stackable trunks designed to keep belongings safe and organised during long journeys.
It is the same innovative spirit, present since 1854, that gives the new watch collection its identity, where each timepiece embodies the precision and artistry synonymous with Louis Vuitton trunks. Just as the custom-made chests were tailored to the needs of discerning travellers, the Escale watches offer a unique blend of functionality and elegance, appealing to modern connoisseurs of fine horology and globetrotters alike.
When the collection was introduced in 2014, it stole the spotlight with its unforgettable Worldtime watch inspired by the colourful markings and pictograms customers used to identify their Louis Vuitton steamer trunks of yesteryear. The Worldtime is a real work of art, hand-painted to perfection by the skilled artisans at La Fabrique du Temps in Geneva, Switzerland.
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Fast-forward to the present, where the Escale, which features the three-hand model for the first time in a decade of its existence, is characterised “by highly textured and tactile surfaces, an elevated approach to case design and sophisticated finishes, while its movement comes from the rich terrain of traditional Swiss horlogerie”, according to the official statement. This is a stripped-down follow-up to the Escale Cabinet of Wonders, a trilogy of métiers d’art timepieces released earlier this year, deeply rooted in heritage and inspired by the collections of Gaston-Louis Vuitton, the third-generation patriarch of the founding family.
The new Escale collection is all about blending sophistication with an everyday elegance. There are two models in rose gold with textured dials, perfect for a classy yet understated look, and two in platinum adorned with ornamental and precious stones for those who want something more extravagant. The lugs resemble the angled and riveted brass brackets of the iconic trunks and the polished gold markers at each quarter replicate the chest’s brass reinforcements. The minuterie, dotted with gold studs, evokes the nails on the lozine borders of a Louis Vuitton trunk. A brushed finish and a subtle concave camber enhance the dial’s texture and readability.
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The detailed dial design includes a precisely curved second hand to ensure accurate time reading and this precision is supported by the chronometer-certified Calibre LFT023 movement with a 50-hour power reserve. The second hand, crafted from titanium for energy efficiency, is treated with a physical vapour deposition or PVD colour process to match the gold hour and minute hands.
The rose-gold models introduce a new dial texture inspired by the finely grained surface of the brand’s monogram canvas. Custom dial stamps replicate the material’s suppleness and tactility on metal. Light plays across the faceted hour indices and the groove divides the central dial and the minuterie, guiding the eye over the intricate textures and finishes.
The rose-gold Escale with a silvery dial features calfskin, another nod to Louis Vuitton’s leather goods expertise. Drawing from the Nomade leather introduced in 1999, the strap develops a beautiful patina over time while maintaining comfort and performance, similar to all of its coveted leather products. Fine yellow stitching, reminiscent of classic Louis Vuitton items, highlights the craftsmanship and handworked detail of the maison. In the platinum versions, lapidary work and gem-setting boost the collection with a va-va-voom factor.
One platinum model features a meteorite dial, showcasing the material’s contrasting textures and natural mineral tones. Another contrasts an onyx central dial’s near-fluid shine with a bezel and case set with baguette-cut diamonds to create an ethereal halo around the black dial. Both models have white-gold hands and markers, forming a monochromatic play of light and shade. Each Escale timepiece includes an engraved serial number over a gold-riveted cartouche on the transparent caseback, which echoes the trunk serial plates. This engraving touches the wrist, connecting the wearer to Louis Vuitton’s artisanal heritage.
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Escale, synonymous with the art of travel, accurately embodies Louis Vuitton’s philosophy that the journey trumps the destination. The redesigned watches reflect this ethos with intentional elements such as the octagonal crown resembling a trunk rivet, fluted for ease of use, and a satin-brushed case middle transitioning to hand-polished lugs with decorative rivets — all carefully applied by hand. The 39mm case beautifully balances textures, featuring a dome-shaped crystal dial for clarity and a sapphire crystal caseback that showcases the movement in all its glory.
First introduced in the 2023 Tambour models, the Calibre LFT023 is the brand’s proprietary automatic movement, designed in collaboration with Le Cercle des Horlogers. It combines modern aesthetics with traditional motifs, including a decorated mainspring barrel and a 22-carat rose gold micro-rotor. These watches are paving the way for a new era of luxury watchmaking, for Louis Vuitton at least, where every tick of the Escale’s movement captures the journey of timeless elegance and deft craftsmanship.
This article first appeared on Jul 1, 2024 in The Edge Malaysia.
