The new collection has been a long time coming — the first in 25 years since the women’s Twenty~4 launch (All photos: Low Yen Yeing/ The Edge Malaysia)
Let us preface this article by saying don’t knock it until you’ve tried it (on). The Patek Philippe Cubitus is far more appealing in real life than in photos and leaked advertisements.
The new collection has been a long time coming — the first in 25 years since the women’s Twenty~4 launch. The drawn-out stretch in between left much to the imagination, encouraging collectors and enthusiasts to dream up their own versions of a new holy grail, shaped by hearsay and speculation that peppered watch forums from time to time.
When word got out that the maison was about to drop something big in Munich, Germany, on Oct 17, fans had already put two and two together after noticing the name “Cubitus” being trademarked a few years ago. Anticipation built up as high as the parting waters of the Red Sea and the watch community brimmed with eagerness to usher another legendary model into the throne room of the Nautilus and Aquanaut, galvanised by talk that it was meant to be a new entry point to the brand.
And then the waves crashed.
While some of the rumours about the release were true, the leak from Fortune magazine not only deflated the entire experience but also shattered expectations in a dramatic fashion. Patek Philippe’s intention became lost in the sea of preconceived notions and ideals flooding social media. As such, it is important to separate fact from fiction.
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First things first
The Cubitus collection consists of three models: Ref 5822P with an instantaneous grand date, day and moonphase as well as two time-and-date-only variations, Ref 5821A and Ref 5821/1AR.
Starting with the simplest and seemingly most in-demand model, the Ref 5821A is furnished with a stainless steel case and sunburst olive green dial. Save for its conspicuous square configuration with rounded edges, the watch is clearly the Nautilus’ younger sibling, from the bracelet, complete with a micro-adjustable clasp, to the horizontally ribbed embossed dial with date window at 3 o’clock and gold applied hour markers and hands. It could be a nod to the highly sought-after Nautilus Ref 5711/1A-014 in the same olive shade, which, together with the Tiffany Blue 5711, performed the swan song for that iconic model in 2021.
Powering the Cubitus is the self-winding 26-330 S C, a new movement based on the 26-330, which was first introduced in 2019 in the Nautilus collection. However, this new derivation boasts an additional stop-seconds function, which allows the wearer to set the time accurately to the second. The central 21-carat gold rotor is adorned with the same horizontal motif as the dial.
The case is 45mm in diameter (10 to 4 o’clock), just 8.3mm thick and surprisingly wears smaller on the wrist. It has a power reserve of up to 45 hours, but water resistance is only 30m — something president Thierry Stern is reported to be not too bothered about.
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The Ref 5821/1AR is essentially the same watch, but in steel and rose gold with a deep blue dial. The precious metal is used for the case, bezel, crown, central bracelet links and baton-style hour markers and hands.
The most complicated Cubitus is Ref 5822P, a platinum timepiece that includes a grand date at 12 o’clock — indicated through an aperture with two discs placed on the same plane — an off-centre moon phase and day display at 7 o’clock, and running seconds at 5 o’clock. Built upon the self-winding Calibre 240, a movement that has been used for nearly five decades and powers models such as the Nautilus Ref 5712, the new 240 PS CI J LU engine has no less than six patents to its name, revolving chiefly around energy management for the various displays.
The functions are all designed to synchronise and jump at midnight within 18 milliseconds, or rather, instantaneously and considerable work was done to ensure the timepiece was durable. Despite its complexity, which adds 104 parts to the original base movement, the calibre remains remarkably slim at 9.6mm. The case still measures 45mm and instead of an integrated bracelet, the Ref 5822P comes in a navy blue composite strap with a fabric pattern and contrasting cream stitching. A platinum bracelet would be way too hefty anyway. A closer inspection will reveal a sole baguette-cut diamond inlaid into the bezel at 6 o’clock.
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Food for thought
The Nautilus and Aquanaut are no doubt the most requested watches in Patek Philippe’s portfolio and the steel models are even more elusive. Over the years, the brand has slowly tried to reposition the spotlight away and wean collectors off these collections to ease demand. There was also a need for evolution and an “entry-level” luxury sports watch that would make the brand more “accessible” to younger, newer buyers.
When you put the Nautilus, Aquanaut and Cubitus side by side, it is evident that they belong in the same family, but each embodies a different personality. Stern explains: “Well, since a long time, I really always wanted to have a square watch in the collection. It’s not easy, as 85% of the watches around the world are round. Since I was quite young, I always challenged myself to say, ‘I need to also have a beautiful square watch in the collection.’
“So, that’s how we started actually, simply like that to say, ‘We have to find something new, something great’ — and it took a long time, to be frank, to find such a beautiful piece because there were many different ways that I could start the design with such a watch. But in my mind, it has to be a thin watch. It also has to be [one] with a new movement. And it also has to be a watch that has really all the DNA of Patek Philippe inside.”
Acceptance may come easier for the simpler Cubitus models, compared to the Grand Date, which could drive people who have symmetry OCD off the rails. The Cubitus collection is said to be fully designed through 2039, so time will tell how it will evolve further.
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In terms of its controversial design, let us not forget there was backlash too when the Nautilus and Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak were launched the 1970s. Look how the tables have turned.
Coincidentally, The Hour Glass’ IAMWATCH event in Singapore was held the same weekend the Cubitus was released. When asked about his thoughts on Patek Philippe’s new collection, Patrick Pruniaux of Sowind Group, which owns Ulysse Nardin and Girard-Perregaux, said: “I’ve only seen pictures, but it’s always brave to do something new.”
On the other hand, industry legend Jean-Claude Biver, known for his foresight, simply answered: “I think everybody will love the watch in three years. It’s like Porsche; when the Cayenne came out, everyone criticised it. But what’s happening today? The Cayenne is selling more than the 911s. The Cubitus will be successful in my opinion. It has the right to exist. If you look at the details and take away your own preconceptions, you will see it will be a great watch.
“It’s a good time to buy now, when people are criticising it,” he quips, adding that he will purchase one as soon as possible. “One day you’ll see. Success will come. I have no doubt about it.”
Good things take time, after all.
The price for the Cubitus ranges from RM195,800 to RM419,600.
This article first appeared on Nov 4, 2024 in The Edge Malaysia.
