House sausages with polenta (All photos: Sam Fong/The Edge Malaysia)
If you drive along Jalan Semantan in Kuala Lumpur, chances are you will miss Semantan Suites altogether. A nondescript block of buildings, it is often overshadowed by a very distracting wedding cake-like store right across from it, hawking furniture more suited to palaces than personal dwelling spaces. For quite a while, the suites offered few choices to tempt the hungry, but a new restaurant has recently popped up, beckoning those curious enough to give it a try.
Named Black Salt, its simple set-up is founded on the philosophy of using good but not extravagant produce with respect. That it should take its name from the mineral prized for its richness in immune-strengthening calcium, magnesium and potassium and is widely featured in Indian cuisine, where it is known as kala namak, is testament to the establishment’s commitment to delivering flavour throughout its extensive menu.
Set up by chartered accountant and initial public offering specialist Dr Damien Lim and F&B veteran Loke Wai Fun, Black Salt is their way of showing they still have something new to contribute to the burgeoning foodie scene in town. And despite the simplicity of the place, save for the warm copper lights and interesting bar counter studded with real black salt crystals, the restaurant, barely six months old, is slowly but surely attracting a clientele.
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Its menu spans East to West, evident from the chilli prawn noodles (RM46.90) and BBQ char siew (RM42) to the hand-battered prawn cakes served with tartare sauce (RM38) and country pate salad (RM30). The long list of good things to eat gives you ample reason to visit time and again, and nothing is pretentious or gimmicky. In short, it is the kind of food you could easily live on without getting bored.
Need something light, tasty and healthy? There is the sea bass served with pickled raisins, coriander, chilli, garlic and pumpkin gnocchi (RM49.90). Need to indulge yourself after a hard day’s work? Order the cheese-topped onion soup (RM28.90), chased with a 230g slab of prime Argentine ribeye (RM120.90).
“What we do is use the best possible ingredients presented in a natural yet delicious way,” says Lim. “We refuse to stereotype our menu or be pigeonholed as an Asian or Western restaurant. I like the term ‘cosmopolitan gastronomy’, versus fusion. When the occasion calls for it, we use Sarawakian dabai, Sabah pekasam, Spanish carabinero prawns, Russian white honey, British aged cheese, Chinese rose wine and Madagascan vanilla beans — we are rojak,” he jokes.
The beauty of Black Salt is that it caters to all palates, ensuring that grandma, who might want some noodles, and your younger brother, who prefers a prawn burger, both go home happy and sated. The bacon and duck egg salad (RM38) makes a good starter and somehow manages to combine sin and virtue rather gloriously on a single plate. If lady luck is on your side, the Duck Breast Wellington (RM148) will be available when you visit, saving you the need to pre-order the dish a good two days ahead. Sweets, of course, would complete the meal. There is a baby brioche ice cream sandwich (RM22) and the ol’ favourite of flourless chocolate cake (RM29). But it is the crêpes that always steal the show. Choose from the classic brandy-flambé Crêpes Suzette (RM24) or the local version, using Gula Melaka and bacon!
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Black Salt’s wine list is decent and approachable, and assuredly will not hurt the wallet. New World options as well as a Spanish Cabernet Sauvignon are offered and nothing is priced above RM170 a bottle. But if you’d like to BYO, corkage is a most reasonable RM60 although there is a premium charge of RM150 for champagne. There is also a small selection of craft beers and stouts.
Teetotallers who need a bit of a zing should try the house-brewed Hardcore Ginger Beer (RM22). Made using local Bentong ginger, it is fierce, fiery and appetite-whetting. Those who like their sips sweet can opt for the chocolat chaud à la Angelina’s of Paris (RM46), Valrhona hot chocolate (RM18) or any of the five milkshake flavours available. Pro tip: Try the Bacon Peanut Butter.
Those who love unique experiences will be keen to learn about Mi Mi Chu Fang (Mandarin for “secret kitchen”), the duo’s other culinary set-up. Established officially in May 2022, the private dining venue is housed within a swanky art- and antique-filled condominium. It specialises in bespoke Chinese cuisine, so expect dishes that taste as delectable as they sound: clams with sweet pear, soy and kombu; gourmet oyster omelette; and mee suah with vodka, abalone and tomato. Western-style menus starring pork confit with chanterelles and roast turkey may also be catered for. Mi Mi Chu Fang can accommodate parties of six to 16 people.
Since the Mid-Autumn Festival is coming up, some may be interested to know that Black Salt sells its own traditional-style homemade bak kwa. “We researched and rediscovered old, forgotten methods of preparing and grilling meat. We also use the bak kwa in our own signature mooncakes. The barbecued meat is finely hand-chopped, which gives it a better texture and mouthfeel, before being soaked in alcohol for a period of time and then added to the pastries,” says Lim. The bak kwa is also available during the Lunar New Year.
Black Salt (non-halal), B-0-7, East Wing, Block B, 10 Semantan Service Suites, 10 Jalan Semantan, Bukit Damansara, KL. Closed on Mondays, 11am to 10pm. Call (012) 2006777 to make reservations.
This article first appeared on Aug 5, 2024 in The Edge Malaysia.
