The trippy passageway that looks endless (Photo: Low Yen Yeing/The Edge)
Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown is buzzing with life, thanks to creative spaces like RexKL and new eateries and bars. The latest watering hole in this area that’s attracting attention is Her House. Located along Jalan Sultan, in the same row as Jao Tim and The Deceased (sadly closed until further notice), what used to be an antique shop has since been transformed into a hip but hidden bar.
Glowing signage makes it slightly easier for one to navigate the stairs, taking in vintage tiled walls and posters at the same time. It can prove a tad creepy once night falls though as dark, vacant alcoves are aplenty. Still, it definitely adds to the speakeasy experience.
There was no other indication that we were on the right track. But venture up the next flight of stairs, step through an unassuming door and there you were.
The neon-lit corridor — one that is heavily featured on the bar’s social media pages — looked endless, thanks to mirrors flanking each side. After a few snaps in the trippy passageway, we pushed through the mirrored door to Her House.
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Decorated with murals and furniture upholstered in cream and bottle green velvet, the cosy bar was split into three sitting areas. As we entered, on the left were high tables set against a wall with tiles that spelled out #MyHouseRules. A disco ball turns slowly above. Running down the length of the place was a massive, many-hued mural of a serpent, with abstract additions that snake towards low sofas and chairs. Against the opposite wall — covered in tattoo-worthy murals of women, flowers and a snake — was another sofa section with stools and a multi-textured green and gold bar.
Following through with the neon lights at the entrance, the dim space was accented with pink and white tube lights (the 2010 science fiction film Tron came to mind). Her House may be a small space, but the addition of mirrors on the ceiling and the wall at the far end made it feel roomy. It was surprisingly quiet for a Friday night, but this could be attributed to the horrid rain that had lashed the city earlier.
The sofa under the large mural offers the perfect vantage point to watch your libations being made at the bar. The menu — backlit with LEDs to save you from squinting or reaching for illumination from a phone — featured two pages of tipples. While the selection of house classic cocktails was extensive, the unusual flavours mentioned in Her Signature Cocktails were too intriguing to miss out on.
Nights are best kickstarted with the Most Wanted (RM47), which comprises a curious list of ingredients: pork soaked in baijiu (yes, you read that right), cognac, sherry, honey and fresh orange and lemon juice. Served in a whimsical glass with an upward-curving spout, it came garnished with mint leaves and a long piece of caramelised bak kwa (Chinese jerky). A taste revealed the inescapable flavour of baijiu with a savoury citrus finish. The sweetness came from a bite of the bak kwa, which balanced the strong taste of the liquor, making this odd combination quite well-rounded.
Flirt & Romance (RM48) was a concoction of salmon fat-washed vodka, honey soy ginger glaze and fresh lemon and orange juice, presented in a coupe. This mix had a smokey sweet flavour with a hint of lemon and an unctuous mouthfeel. However, it was easy to drink, revealing a different layer with each sip.
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From the selection of low ABV (alcohol by volume) tipples, we chose Her Cobbler (RM40). This tipple featured suan mei tang — a centuries-old Chinese sour plum drink consumed to cool off on a hot day — together with sherry, sugar and orange juice. Refreshing with notes of dark fruit, this tincture was perfect for wine fans.
Her House had a selection of bar bites as well as heartier mains such as grilled unagi and chicken karaage — both served with rice. The usual snacks such as edamame, popcorn chicken and fries — not particularly sophisticated but they do the job — are given quirky names like Eat the Green (RM10), Cube or Cutie (RM18) and Blonde Hair (RM14) to entice guests.
A plate of Squizy Balls (RM15), better known as takoyaki, were nice, chewy and flavourful. We ordered — and devoured them posthaste. It was unfortunate that many of the skewered snacks were unavailable that night but the King of Mushroom (RM8) and Better than Belly Fats (RM8) — the latter being grilled pork belly — went well with most of the drinks we ordered. The highlight snack was certainly the Medusa (RM15), deep-fried enoki mushroom spread around a serving of a spiced powder. Add a sprinkling of the salty, spicy condiment and the fried fungi became addictive.
Other guests began trickling in, giving the space atmosphere. Despite their increasing presence, Her House managed to retain a private, exclusive ambience. Thirsty once again, we ordered What if… (RM49), a herbal concoction with a spirit-forward taste. Dressed with fragrant snow fungus and made with red ginseng cognac, rye whisky, soju, winter elixir syrup and orange bitters, this drink is a nod to the traditional drinks and medicines Chinatown was once so well known for.
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We would recommend ending the evening with an order of Envy Me (RM48), a mix of saké junmai, osmanthus vermouth bianco, campari, white grape syrup, lemon juice and soda. Served in a textured-glass tokkuri (a thin-necked bottle with a rounded bottom used for serving sake) and a small cup, this drink has a beautiful rosy colour. Reminiscent of a cooling Chinese tea, the concoction has a light sweetness and a subtle bitter finish. Calming and easy to drink.
Her House certainly has an air of mystery, fuelled by the edgy decor and unique cocktails. Once the door closed behind you, it was as though you were back in reality, leaving behind the colourful world of this hidden gem. The drinks and atmosphere beckoned us to go back in. It is safe to say that the untried items on the menu definitely warrant a return visit.
Her House, 63 D, Jalan Sultan, Bangunan Ka Yin, KL. Daily, 4pm-midnight.
This article first appeared on Aug 22, 2022 in The Edge Malaysia.
