Yap: Peaches and Cream marks a return to the flavours that shaped my ‘culinary formative years’ in London and beyond (All photos: Shahrill Basri/ The Edge Malaysia)
Options: You opened Peaches and Cream in June 2023. Tell us the story behind the brasserie’s name.
Victor Yap: I chose it as peaches are one of my favourite fruits. To me, they invoke a sense of sweetness, juiciness, warmth and comfort. I thought the name just clicked.
The menu, we are told, is heavily inspired by your years of living in the UK and as your European travels. Can you tell us more?
I lived in London in the 2000s and travelled around Europe frequently. While working as a civil engineer, I also ran a supper club from my apartment, focusing on regional recipes, seasonal ingredients and festive menus. These intimate gatherings began shaping my culinary interests and appreciation for the classics. London’s dynamic food scene in the 2000s was also hugely influential. The rise of celebrity chefs and the influx of Mediterranean flavours revitalised pub food and brought a wave of exciting international cuisines, from Japanese to Levantine and Mexican. The evolving food scene then sparked my interest to learn more, which further fuelled my culinary journey.
This would be your third F&B venture after Tray and Fittie Sense. What made you decide to pay homage to modern European cuisine?
Tray Cafe was a satisfying chapter in my culinary journey, and I’m immensely proud of Fittie Sense coming up to its seventh anniversary soon! Peaches and Cream marks a return to the flavours that shaped my ‘culinary formative years’ in London and beyond. It’s more than just a business venture, it’s a personal pilgrimage back to the classics, the dishes that first tickled my taste buds and continue to resonate deeply. Tray, with its blend of European comfort and a Malaysian twist, was a wonderful experiment in cultural fusion. But a decade spent navigating the ever-evolving Malaysian culinary landscape left me yearning for the unwavering charm of the classics. They’re not just familiar choices, they’re a timeless comfort anchored in a sea of culinary innovation.
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Foodie friends have told us Peaches and Cream’s dessert trolley is something else.
Ahh, the sweet chariot! It’s a rolling collection (literally) of all my favourite desserts. The classic Pound Cake and the zesty Lemon Pistachio Bundt are nods to teatime in London. But the real stars are the puddings, often overlooked but deserving of the spotlight. I also can’t resist a good tart. Lemon curd is a crowd-pleaser, but the rhubarb custard tart is my personal Achilles’ heel — that perfect balance of tart and sweet on a buttery base. And then the crowning glory: trifle. From our namesake peaches and cream, a celebration of juicy summer bounty (seasonal peaches from Spain and France), to the decadent chocolate, cherry and mascarpone (inspired by another favourite, the Black Forest), it’s a joyous pile-up of everything I want in a dessert.
What was your original childhood ambition?
Architect. The way it marries art and science to create something both functional and beautiful always fascinated me. But as an international student in the UK, seven years of education felt like a daunting mountain to climb, especially with the financial considerations. So, I turned to civil engineering, its more practical cousin. While it wasn’t quite sketching blueprints for dream homes, I found immense satisfaction in seeing buildings and structures take shape — from foundation to completion.
And what triggered this love of F&B?
My love of food wasn’t sparked by a single epiphany, but rather a constant simmering. Growing up in Kuala Lumpur, deliciousness was everywhere, from the charm of hawker stalls to the grand feasts of Chinese restaurants. Food was an adventure, a shared experience, a celebration. So, it wasn’t a sudden ‘aha’ moment, but a whisper of possibility. My first venture, Tray Cafe, was born not of a grand plan, but Dinesh (Rao), Allison (Wong) and I shared a leap of faith. Approaching it was a tightrope walk of excitement and trepidation because we had steady day jobs. But we were pragmatic enough to know that if we were going to gamble on F&B, it had to be while we were young. And now, 10 years later, the flames haven’t dimmed.
What are you reading right now?
Serendipitously, I’m currently devouring David Chang’s Eat a Peach, a gift from a close friend who’s been with me since the Tray Cafe days.
What are you listening to right now?
My Spotify playlists lately have been a time machine set to the 1990s and 2000s, pumping out nostalgic house music. It’s like taking a trip back to carefree university weekends and the heady excitement of bursting onto the London scene after graduation. Those anthems still hold the power to transport me, reminding me of the energy, freedom and sheer joy of those formative years.
Since so much of your menu is inspired by time spent abroad, what’s on your 2024 travel list?
My travel compass is already twitching to a Mediterranean adventure. Turkey and the Greek islands have been beckoning for years, and I’m ready to dive into their sun-drenched cuisines. It’s not just about discovering the classics, I’m also eager to unearth hidden gems in places like Cyprus and Crete, hopefully. And if I can avoid losing track of time on the Aegean Sea, a hop to southern Italy and Sicily might just be the perfect capstone. It’s been too long since I wandered through the vineyards and trattorias of that vibrant region.
Any particular restaurants abroad that are on your eat list?
My ‘must-eat’ list is a constant source of gastronomic daydreams, but three restaurants reign supreme: Ikoyi in London, and Etxebarri nestled near Bilbao and the elusive El Celler de Can Roca in Girona, both in Spain. Ikoyi is London’s reigning ‘it’ boy — it’s so bold, innovative and cutting edge! Etxebarri and El Celler de Can Roca, however, represent a different kind of lure. They’re legends and deserving of a pilgrimage, but reservations are a battlefield.
Describe your idea of a perfect weekend.
What is a weekend [to a restaurateur]? I suppose it’s not about escape but balance. I genuinely enjoy the buzz of F&B, especially the creative process. And as we settle into our operations at Peaches and Cream, I’m able to escape for a few hours here and there to hit the gym, swim or smack some balls on the tennis court. Sports and wellness are important to me, but I see life as a delicious balance of hustle and self-care. Ending Sunday with my small circle of friends over good food would be perfect. Laughter and shared meals are my stress-buster. After all, isn’t that what food is all about? To nourish and bring us together.
Peaches and Cream, Lot L1.08 & L1.09, Level First Floor, The Grange @ Ampwalk, The Amplwalk, 218, Jln Ampang, Kampung Datuk Keramat, KL. Daily, 10am-10pm. Reserve a table here.
Peaches and Cream will tie up with Heeren Mansion in Melaka for a Love & Lantern menu on Feb 24 that includes a four-course meal, live entertainment and a private house tour. For enquiries, see here.
This article first appeared on Feb 5, 2024 in The Edge Malaysia.
