Officine Panerai
The Astronomo - Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT is the first of Officine Panerai’s creations to have moon phase indication and an innovative system using polarised crystals to indicate the date. A remarkable and stunning new made-to-order timepiece that can be personalised, this precious timepiece serves to enhance the series dedicated to the genius of Italian polymath Galileo Galilei.
Piaget
With the Altiplano Ultimate Concept, Piaget has broken a new world record to create the thinnest automatic watch in the world. A masterpiece of miniaturisation, this watch is the fruit of a perfect fusion of Piaget's areas of expertise – the Manufacture in La Côte-aux-Fées, where the movements were developed, and the Manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates, tasked with housing the movements, have collaborated to bring technical innovation to the service of absolute elegance, drawing on decades of creativity, audacity and watchmaking mastery that form Piaget's own unique heritage.
Ulysse Nardin
Last year's fair saw this forward-thinking watchmaker release the bold InnoVision 2 concept watch. With the Freak Vision Automatic, Ulysse Nardin is taking many of the key innovations and translating them into a regular production timepiece. Counted among them are the incredibly light silicium balance wheel and stabilising micro-blades, designed to increase accuracy.
A. Lange & Söhne
Last year's fair was bittersweet for A. Lange & Söhne as it saw the passing of Walter Lange, a figure responsible for not only reinvigorating the German brand, but that of German watchmaking as a whole. At this year’s SIHH, the watchmaker pays Lange a fitting tribute – the handsome 1815 line has been added with an unusual jumping seconds timepiece, inspired by a 150-year-old complication created by the brand’s founder Ferdinand Adolph Lange.
Audemars Piguet
For the first time, the Le Brassus watchmaker has launched a concept timepiece in the Royal Oak collection for women. Audemars Piguet Ladies' Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon is anchored by 38.5mm white gold case set with baguette or brilliant cut diamonds along the shaped lugs and bezel. On the other hand, the movement is visible through the front or the case as well as the back and features white lacquer and satin-brushed bridges. The watch is powered by the new caliber 2951, which features a flying tourbillon at six o'clock.
Cartier
A major attraction at Cartier’s booth this year was a dazzling display of 19 mystery clocks which appear to magically defy gravity with their floating hands. Taking inspiration from these creations is the Rotonde Double Tourbillon Mysterieux Squelette, a 42mm platinum double tourbillon encased with double sapphire crystals on the front and back, highlighting the mystery of the Swiss manual-wind Cartier in-house calibre 9465 MC with 26 jewels, 21,600 vph and a power reserve of 52 hours.
Hermès
A new transfer to SIHH from Baselworld, Hermès’s star watch this year is a reinterpretation of an iconic timepiece unveiled back in 2010. The Carré H is a mechanical square watch created by celebrated designer and architect Marc Berthier, boasting a modern aesthetic that assures instant legibility. This year’s version is slightly larger, and features polished and microbead-blasted finishes on its facetted hands and numerals, as well as a guilloché dial. Just gorgeous, and so very indicative of Hermès’ inimitable sense of style.
IWC Schaffhausen
To fete its founding in 1868, IWC Schaffhausen has unveiled the 150th Anniversary Jubilee Collection at this year’s fair, which consists of 27 timepieces across the brand’s bestselling lines. Varied as they all are, the watches share key traits like glossy lacquer dials, printed rather than applied hour markers and casebacks or movements bearing the anniversary insignia. Our favourite is the Tribute to Pallweber Edition “150 Years” (Ref. IW505101), a pocket watch modelled on the late 19th century original made by Austrian watchmaker Josef Pallweber.
Montblanc
Under the creative guidance of Davide Cerrato, Montblanc has fortified its collection with a stunning tribute to the 160th anniversary of its Villeret-based Minerva manufacture with a one-of-a-kind world-timer. The 1858 Monopusher Chronograph Limited Edition 100 comes with a 24-hour dial, integrated compass and super-light titanium case. And with a pulsation scale inscribed on the bezel with which to calculate one’s heart rate after particularly strenuous exertions, it’s safe to call it the perfect analogue ‘smart watch’ for the gentleman explorer.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Inspired by the iconic Memovox Polaris watch from 1968, Jaeger-LeCoultre has developed a new collection to join the brand’s existing pillars. Not just a single homage to a historical reference, this new collection applies a contemporary twist to the spirit of Memovox Polaris with a full range of timepieces: a three-hand automatic, a chronograph and a chronograph world time, as well as two models with a stronger vintage feel: the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date and the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Memovox (pictured).