While looking to the future, getting reacquainted with your roots is perhaps the best way to appreciate how far you have come. For a certain exalted cognac label, the journey to success began in 1724 when a young winegrower by the name of Rémy Martin started selling the amber courage under his own name. Hard work and attention to detail often pay off, and this came in the form of being granted the extraordinary right to cultivate new vines by King Louis XV of France himself — the recognition and push that led to the creation of the first-ever Rémy Martin Grande Champagne Cognac in 1830, solidifying the maison’s position as a pioneer and leader of the spirits industry.
Three hundred years after that initial spark, the house of Rémy Martin has become synonymous with luxury, tradition and culture, earning accolade after accolade. Its commitment to French customs is not to say that innovation and creativity are off the table, but rather that it is embraced — in 2012, the label’s Charente estates were the first to earn the High Environmental Value certification for its sustainable agriculture efforts, a movement that was swiftly adopted by neighbouring brands.
To celebrate three centuries of remarkable cognac-making and genius, the maison is set to host a series of celebrations across the globe. In Kuala Lumpur, festivities took place at the scenic Boathouse by the Lake, where guests not only raised a glass to an illustrious history, but also a bright future.
The evening began with guests rolling up to the venue’s glasshouse, where they were greeted with cocktails and canapés. The talents of Penang’s Backdoor Bodega, headed by the acclaimed establishment’s manager and champion of the 2024 Rémy Martin Bartender Talent Academy competition Thanesh Kumar, who commanded the bar. The menu featured three liquid libations of varying complexity — the honest highball, the lemony sidecar, and Thanesh’s winning creation, named the Val d’Or, crafted with Rémy Martin 1738 Accord Royal, home-made rose apple cider, herbal Punt e Mes vermouth and gold flake garnish. Astrology readings and tarot card sessions filled the air with excitement and promises of fortune.
With the sun setting and appetites satisfied, guests were ushered into the dome space next door, where lights were dimmed and golden projections lit up the high white walls. At the centre of each table sat plates of candied fruit, figs, lilikoi and mixed nuts — all the tasting notes found within the 300th Anniversary Coupe, which guests were eagerly anticipating.
As seats were filled and the chatter became louder, servers in gold sequinned jackets poured rounds of XO. The Coupe’s sleek glass carafe was presented on stage, from which attendees could observe its elegant form inspired by its predecessor from 50 years ago. Adorned with embossed lines, the bottle pays homage to the house’s javelin-throwing Centaur emblem.
Giant, golden depictions of the vessel were projected around the room, a magnificent sight to behold. Then, snifter glasses of Coupe were brought around with a refreshing iced palate cleanser. Created by cellar master Baptiste Loiseau, this special-edition cognac incorporates selections from the Rémy Martin Réserve Perpétuelle, a generations-old collection of exceptional eaux-de-vie from the Grande Champagne terroir.
Guests were invited to give the luminous amber liquor a gentle swirl before nosing. Warm, comforting notes of candied orange, passion fruit, leather, spices and sandalwood wafted up, grounded by faint floral in the background. The earthiness imparted from ageing in oak barrels for at least 10 years, aka rancio, was pleasantly fresh. Upon tasting, the exotic fruity aromas became even more pronounced, complemented by an impressive structure. Whispering oak notes were also present, leaving an elegant, prolonged finish.
A four-course gastronomic experience followed, accompanied by a live jazz band. Dinner started with an entrée of seared scallops laid on a paku (fiddlehead fern) salad dressed with bright calamansi, delicate coconut cheese and garland-shaped budu cracker for some crunch. Next came grilled slipper lobster, paired with a light buttermilk curry, salad greens and curry leaf foam.
For the main course, thick slices of roasted aged mountain duck with crispy golden skin were plated alongside smoked duck liver and fish garum puff pastry and tamarind braised mustard greens. Dessert came in the form of a rendition of apam balik (peanut pancake), a Malaysian classic, that featured a pillowy fermented rice cake sandwiched between two paper-thin coconut crackers, topped with a white corn cream and peanut candy. With each dish, guests were encouraged to savour the Coupe and experience how the flavours shifted throughout the meal.
Of course, the evening would not have been complete without a cake-cutting ceremony and a toast. Guests raised their glasses, shouting “Yam Seng”, the Cantonese phrase which means “Drink to victory”. Slices of the moist chocolate confection were served as a final sweet treat, and in true celebratory fashion, a DJ was on hand to keep the party going late into the night.
Only 84 units of the 300th Anniversary Coupe are available for purchase in Malaysia. Interested collectors may find them at The Chamber (outlets located in The Starhill, Pavilion Bukit Jalil and Sunway Pyramid), BSC Fine Foods, BIG @ Publika and Hank’s The Gardens Mall.
This article first appeared on June 24, 2024 in The Edge Malaysia.