The store offers a range of Peranakan curios, from kebayas to furniture (Photo: Baba Nyonya Royal Heritage)
Embracing our cultural heritage is vital for it is a fundamental cornerstone to build a strong sense of identity and connection to our roots. Understanding where we come from forms the foundation of who we are. Many a time, cultural appreciation often occurs later in life. As people mature, they develop a deeper gratitude for their heritage as they encounter different perspectives and contexts.
It is no different for Ivan Lee, the proprietor of Baba Nyonya Royal Heritage in Bangsar Shopping Centre (BSC), Kuala Lumpur. “I always took my Peranakan background for granted. When I was younger, I was in search of my own identity and it took a difficult situation to go back to the basics, to who I am,” he says.
“The primary goal of Baba Nyonya Royal Heritage is to preserve the vibrant Peranakan culture and share its rich history with as many people as possible. I am passionate about celebrating this colourful culture and dispelling misconceptions that it is only relevant to older generations. The kebaya, for example, is a tradition for everyone to embrace and enjoy, regardless of age.”
What led him to pursue this venture?
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“It’s quite a twist of fate, really. Everything started during the lockdowns. Before that, I was primarily an event organiser, managing various bazaars in shopping malls around KL. When the pandemic hit and gatherings were banned, I lost my main source of income. During a heartfelt conversation with some close vendor friends, I expressed my worries about the uncertain future. They encouraged me to explore a new path: fashion design.
“They offered to guide me through the process, introducing me to suppliers and helping me find my own style. With little else to do during the lockdown, I embraced the challenge. It was daunting, given the vastness of the fashion industry, but I threw myself into online research and homework, determined to discover my niche.”
After a long period of contemplation, one day it suddenly struck him: he comes from the Peranakan heritage. This realisation sparked an idea — a unique selling point that was scarcely represented on the local fashion scene. That’s when he felt called to get into heritage wear design. “From that moment, I delved deeper into research, focusing specifically on Peranakan fashion. I sought to understand its intricacies: the rules, the customs and how to distinguish an authentic kebaya. I learnt to differentiate the mass-produced ones from handmade pieces and from then on, there was no turning back.”
From a small pop-up at the top floor of BSC, Lee was given the opportunity to move into the existing outlet in August last year. He admits that it was a very difficult decision to make, setting up a store at a time when the retail industry was still very much uncertain. “The instability of many shops opening and closing was a concern, but with the encouragement of my friends, I realised there might never be the right time. So, I took a leap of faith and moved forward. I’m incredibly grateful for their support.”
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Lee acknowledges that it has been a roller coaster of emotions since but he has no regrets. Despite the intimidating overhead costs, he is only determined to work harder to make this venture a success. “One great perk of running the business is having complete decision-making power. Everything — from the patterns to the aesthetic — is entirely my own creation. It’s like bringing my dream to life.”
The main product offerings are kebayas with intricate embroidery and modernised kebaya panjang. These pieces are crafted by master artisans from Melaka, aged between 60 and 80-plus. “Everything is carefully made by hand and you will notice the impeccable workmanship. It’s such a pity the younger generation find this work too tedious and not at all appealing. They would rather get office jobs than learn this dying trade.”
He always consults his tailors on the accuracy of the cutting and motifs, and he actively collects feedback from customers. “For example, I’ve noticed my clients at BSC prefer vibrant colours, so I don’t offer many muted tones or pastels. I’m aligned with their preferences and provide what they’re looking for, whether it’s bold reds or vibrant blues. I relay this information to my tailor, who then advises me on how to pair colours and fabrics accordingly for each piece.”
Lee also carries beaded shoes, kerongsang and other accessories to help customers put together a look. Additionally, he offers custom-made sarongs tailored to one’s desired design, colours and cut, as well as casual kebayas that can be paired with jeans.
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For the modern kebaya, he sources rare materials from around the region. “Each outfit is uniquely designed by me. You won’t find anything like it anywhere else.” He eagerly experiments with modern silhouettes and hopes to expand this signature style into his own fashion line in the future.
In his store, you will find a range of curios for sale, including antique chairs, baskets, porcelain jars and tiffin carriers. He relies on a network of collectors and maintains direct relationships with families who provide collectible items and assist in authenticating them. His suppliers — experienced antique store owners — educate him on distinguishing originals from replicas, focusing on details like hand-painted motifs versus printed ones.
Lee’s favourite piece in the store is a prized silk thread embroidered kebaya, made freehand as the material is fed through the sewing machine, hence the name sulam goyang. “This one took about six months to make by a master artisan and it’s priced at RM3,500. You can see the difference in the embroidery compared to those made with cotton thread.”
If there is one thing Baba Nyonya Royal Heritage has taught him, it is this: “I now know the difference between working for money and working for passion. There are times where I feel like a custodian of my Peranakan culture, but most importantly, it is a responsibility I wholeheartedly embrace and cherish.”
This article first appeared on June 3, 2024 in The Edge Malaysia.
